Also, beware that some potentiometer bodies are isolated from the bushings that ground to the chassis. Not sure what style/brand pots you are using.
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drilling brass plate for fender-like deluxe build rework
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Yes, I have an image of a scope trace at the speaker. its 2 or 3 computers ago, so I have to find that computer, boot up and locate it. Will do tonight. I don't recall if its 60 or 120. The scope trace is VERY weird, its not a clean looking wave.The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.
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I found the old post, from when I built the amp. Will go through all the suggestions again there, now that I have time. This amp has solid state rectifiers across the input side of the tube rect, as suggested in a build thread from MEF.
This trace is at the speaker. The peaks are about 60hz. This is with the volume relatively low, no input (input jacks shorted).
Someone suggested that the GZ34 might be a bad-out-of-the-box tube and that might be causing this spike. I won't post anymore until I get rid of all the ad-hoc mods and back to (as close to) fender as possible, maybe only without the brass plate. Thanks again, everyone.
The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.
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Originally posted by The Dude View PostAlso, beware that some potentiometer bodies are isolated from the bushings that ground to the chassis. Not sure what style/brand pots you are using.
https://www.tubesandmore.com/product...io-solid-shaft
Solid shaft. I read, back a few years ago, that these are pretty good quality, that's why I got these. The threaded part is not very long, though. I think the body grounds to the chassis.The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.
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