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Hi Everyone. Im looking for a drawing of mounting a speaker onto a baffle board with T nuts etc. Im sure it was posted on here a while ago. Ive searched the forum but cant find it. Anyone remember it?. Thanks.
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Just put the T-nut on the back side of the baffle with the speaker on the front. Also it's a good idea to put a spot of fingernail polish or Locktite on the threads. -
Hmmm... I usually do it the other way around. I mount the T-nuts in the FRONT of the baffle and mount the speaker on the back. That way I can remove the speaker without removing the grill cloth. But it's worth noting that if you are designing with an easily removable grill cloth (like velcro) that mounting the T-nuts in the back and the speaker in the front will buy you a fraction of extra cabinet depth and the cabinet will be a fraction less directional. My favorite cab is done this way.
If you decide to mount the speaker through the front be sure to use washers. I find the cush of the cardboard, rubber or foam ring offers enough counter resistance to hold just fine without Loc-Tite or nail polish.
Chuck"Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." HelmholtzComment
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Thanks for replies. Managed to find the drawing. Its on page one of kit amps posted by Stingray. It looks to be a mixture of both ideas, So Ill have another look and decide whats best. Thanks again.Comment
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Many old cabs just have mounting studs coming from the front with the speaker mounted in the back. If I am doing a vintage restoration I always mount the speaker(s) how it was done originally if possible. For a new build I almost always mount the speaker from the front as I said. It's easier to remove or replace, it gives you easier access if you need to get something through the speaker hole, and you don't have to be so careful to cut a perfect hole since the speaker frame will cover most imperfections. Many times with a used cab with a funky baffle or a different speaker arrangement, I will just cut and mount a new piece of 1/2" ply over the old baffle with screws and glue, re-cut the hole(s), paint it with flat back paint, and mount the speaker from the front. Quick, easy, strong, effective, and attractive. And yes, a grill that attaches with vecro makes it easier too.Originally posted by Chuck H View PostComment
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