Tweed Cabinet / Baffle

[spiffpeters]

Finally getting around to building a cabinet for the Mission 5E3. For the baffle, I'm leaning towards gluing up a couple of 3/4 pine boards and then thickness planing it down to 1/2. Thinking that a solid pine baffle will be more resonant than plywood. Warping is the only concern I have about this approach. Installing the baffle into a dado would reduce the amount of warp, but that is not without its obvious drawbacks either.

I've got Scott's 5E3 plans, which are really really great. But I'm a little confused on just how the baffle, spacer strips and facia strips all fit together. Also not sure where the cleats for the baffle board are suppose to go.

[Sock Puppet]

I've never made one but there are some nice photos relating to cab construction here: http://new.photos.yahoo.com/casey4s/albums

HTH

S.

[spiffpeters]

Looks like he built a Bassman.

The Deluxe is a 1x12 combo. The front of the amp is also slightly angled back (9.5" at the base, 8.5" at the top).

Saw some other stuff that helpful in a more general way. Thanks.

[clyde1]

I wouldn't use pine for the baffle, baltic birch plywood is the material of choice here. I use 1/4" and put a 1" strip around the outside for added strength where it's mounted to the cleats. The flat part mounts to the cleats and the side with the strips will be the front and your grille cloth will "float"
1/4" above the centre of the baffle and speaker, which is back-mounted.

[spiffpeters]

Thanks Clyde. That's what I thought. Just needed a confirmation. Cleat placement can't be all that critical I would imagine.

[clyde1]

Spiff,
I put my cleats about 3/4" into the box so that the grillecloth is just inside
the box when mounted. I also tilt it back slightly as my boxes are straight with front-mounted chassis. Tweed boxes are angled and the baffle mounts on the top and bottom front overhangs (is that the term?), no need for cleats
in this application. I'm not sure if this is what you're up to, but the old adage
of measure twice....

[spiffpeters]

"Tweed boxes are angled and the baffle mounts on the top and bottom front overhangs..."

The top and bottom front edge have a rabbet. I have cut the rabbet joint on the top and bottom, but still fail to see how the baffle actually attaches to the cabinet. From the way I read the drawings, the rabbets will accept the facia boards.

[clyde1]

I guess fascia was the term I was looking for. The baffles just mount with 2 screws on the top and 2 screws on the bottom fascia boards. The baffle isn't attached at the sides of the cabinet and shouldn't rub either. I'm not familiar with your plans, just remembering the tweeds I worked on, been a few years.

[spiffpeters]

I can see where the facia boards support the baffle. But what supprts the facia boards? The top edge of the top facia board, and the bottom edge of the bottom facia board sit in a rabbet, but that doesn't seem like sufficient support. Perhaps the facia boards sit in a dado on the side panels?

[Tom Phillips]

Here is a side view photo of the top facia board on a 1959 Bassnman cab. As you said, the top edge sits in a rabbet. The sides do too. That's all the support there is. Looks like it's made from 1/4" ply. They seem to hold up well.
Tom

[spiffpeters]

Ah ha! There is the elusive detail. Now I see how it goes. Thanks for the picture Tom. A picture is worth a thousand words indeed.

[jaydawg]

Did you see this post. The pics say it all.
http://music-electronics-forum.com//...read.php?t=201

[spiffpeters]

Excellent work Jaydawg. Thanks for the pic's. Very helpful. Is that the PC 4212 dovetail jig you're using? I was thinking about making a finger joint jig for the table saw, but perhaps the PC jig is the better way to go.

[jaydawg]

Yup, I'm a big fan of that dovetail jig. Great tool the money. But the table saw method works good too, if your jig is set up well. Thats how Leo did it.

As far as the facia strips. I cut the rabbit for them on the table saw with a daddo blade and arbor set a 86 degree's. The facia is made of 1/4 pine.