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  • #46
    Paul,

    The Sears crating I'm referring to - not sure what come in it - is longer than standard pallets with some member over 6 feet. The advantage is that pieces can be cut from between the joints so that you don't have to worry about nails and these seem to be pretty clean as they were covered with card board. Some of the shorter ones do have staples on one side that have to be removed (this side could be the "inside" of a cabinet). Again, with these the problem is board width but with the variety of woods one can create a cabinet with a variety or woods that are quite nice (or could create a garish monstrosity as some wood workers do when they choose wildly clashing woods).

    Rob

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    • #47
      that's funny hearing about Asian stuff- I rescued a pallet from a giant printer the other day because it had really nice plywood on it in a section large enough for a baffle board and lots of smaller parts that would be useful for jigs and such. I like the hardwood idea too.

      jamie

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      • #48
        All of those cabinets look great..... When i did my prototype 2x12, it was made with 4 ply mahogany. No finger joints on that one. But my next prototype 2x12 and combo cabs will.

        -g
        ______________________________________
        Gary Moore
        Moore Amplifiication
        mooreamps@hotmail.com

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        • #49
          I built one 5E3 cab with Honduras Mahogany, and stained it with Chris Craft stain.. Looked like it belonged on an old runabout boat. Beautiful color.

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          • #50
            Try Rockler or Woodcrafters for lumber

            There are some beautiful exotics at the woodworking stores - bubinga, shedua (curly shedua is beautiful), canarywood is a wonderful yellow with red and purple grain lines, blood wood, lacewood, goncal alves in addition to all the north american woods. They also have veneers if you want a pine cabinet with some eye-candy on the outside.

            If the wood isn't wide enough just join 2 or 3 narrow pieces. Make friends with someone with a jointer and thickness sander.

            I saw some gorilla glue a few pages back. I've had bad luck with that stuff on joinery. I'd stick to Titebond II - I've had wood before the Titebond glue joint failed, that stuff is stronger than most woods!

            Good luck

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