Ampeg headshell roundover

[sprack]

Does anyone know the proper roundover for an Ampeg headshell? I've read both 1/4" and 3/8". Sorry for no finger joints.

[sprack]

I'm gonna go with a 1/2". Looks like all the corner pieces at tubesandmore, besides Marshall style (3/4"), are 1/2".

[J M Fahey]

I use an even smaller one, 3/8" , *everywhere* , to make life easier for my router; but if you will use Fender style corner protectors, you'll need 1/2".

[Chuck H]

I use an even smaller one, 3/8" , *everywhere* , to make life easier for my router; but if you will use Fender style corner protectors, you'll need 1/2".

Where do you get corner protectors for a 3/8" corner??? Oh... It's Juan... You probably make them

[J M Fahey]

Well, believe it or not, I *do* have the cut and punch die set for making my own.
I cloned (well, my die maker did) those old 3 legged corner protectors used by Acoustic, ARP and Sunn, among others.
Why these and not, say, the Fender/Ampeg type?
Because the ones I settled for have a simpler die set, just two of them: the one which cuts the 3 legged "star" and the one which stamps it into the final shape.
They still need 2 other operations: punching the screw holes and , when necessary, cut the 3rd leg .
Punching them was cheap, but plating cost more than the rest of the operations combined; I did the same as Fender: first copper plating and then nickel or chrome, which has the added expense and delay of polishing.
There is something called "flash chrome" buy it's atoms deep, plus it cracks easy and then you have hairline rust cracks.
That said, I haven't used them for over 10 years; the Chinese ones (same as those used by Hartke but the next smaller size) are cheaper than making my own ... and have 3/8" radius .
I also have the die set for making the Twin style strap handle, with included metal strip.
Same cost considerations.
Although , believe it or not, last week I was considering starting again with the metal corners, but now simply zinc plating them which is fast and dirt cheap.
Another small problem is that adjusting the proper die depth to have perfect corners (too little and they have "waves" because metal does not stretch evenly; too much and they close more than 90 degrees and become unmountable) takes , say, 300 or 400 imperfect corners, and the machine owner wants to charge a minimum fee, so minimum practical production is 1000 to 1500 corners; a sensible "economy" production is 4000 or 5000 of them (which can be made in a single afternoon).
I'll post some pictures of a couple hundred (already rusty) ones I have remaining.

[Chuck H]

What about changing some of the other amp cosmetics and coat the corners you make in low lustre black powder coat? I haven't priced it. But I'll bet it's an economical alternative with fine looks and durability.

[J M Fahey]

Yes, black painted metallic corner caps are an option.
Peavey started using them, then Fender followed, then many others.
As of amp cosmetics, I'm the designer so I can use whatever I want.
It's my party .
Like anybody else does, by the way !!
Today, for example, I can't find (cheap) black Philips head screws and am using available anywhere silver zinc plated ones.
I bought 5000 for what I would have paid for 500 black ones ... so silver it is.
Best part is that most customers find them "cute", go figure.
I tell the few which complain and ask for black that Marshall uses "gold" zinc plated screws !!!

[Chuck H]

The economics all boil down to what you need to charge the customer. If you can give them a good product at a price they like then silver zinc it is. Because I build one offs I just buy or fabricate what I need. As a result (and because I'm not filed resale) I don't mark up for parts. I just charge labor. Though I do log in the time it takes to source parts that aren't in my normal inventory. And yes, those black plated or painted screws are expensive. Anyone doing volume sales of standard models NEEDS to mark up parts to make an acceptible profit. And the standard profit on materials is 50% (or, put another way, a 100% markup on your bulk/wholesale price). That adds up really fast as it relates to the retail price of your product.

[J M Fahey]

I have a terrible price roof over my head because the US Dollar is at the same price as in 2002, while inflation in Argentine Pesos was a *real* 500% in that same period. No kidding.
So if I rise prices, the Chinese outbid me.
Only thing that saves me (so far) is that Importers and Shop owners are greedy (much more than normal) and mark up finished stuff (Instruments, amps, strings, drums, etc.) by 300% .
To be more precise: while a UK made Valvestate 80 was sold for U$800 10 years ago, (their cost=U$500) , now the modern equivalent is an India or China MG combo, their cost U$200, they still sell it for U$ 800 ("it's a Marshall, isn't it"?).
Tanks to that there is a niche for me selling affordable basic 100W amps which run circles around those MG combos and can be sold for around $400.
*If* I charged $600, they would spend $200 extra and "have a real Marshall" , so I can't raise prices.
And if they sold those MG combos for $300 or 400 (their real street price), I would have to open a small fastfood joint or a small 24/7 convenience store or drive a taxi or some cr*p like that.
Which most of my colleagues did.
That's why I have to watch costs closely.
Customers often say, why don't you use such and such parts?
Fact is, everything adds up , and I must use relatively inexpensive but still *working* parts.
I borrow a lot from other industries.
Examples: no $4 or 5 netal toggle switches but 85 cents plastic rocker switches.
The kind used in coffee machines, hair dryers and such. *VERY* reliable.
No Carlin footswitches available (or impossibly expensive) but floor polishing and vacuum cleaning machine ones , which are available anywhere and very robust too.
Car type nitro and acrylic paints; relatively cheap and excellent finish, not to mention *quick* drying without an oven or tunnel.
Plus, as you know, a lot of self made parts.
And so on.