Glue "stain resistance"

[Ptron]

Somebody may have mentioned this in another thread but I'm not finding it. I'm wondering if there's a type of glue or a technique of application that avoids "stain resistance", those spots that inevitably get on the surface of the work around the joint and and prevent the stain from taking.

It's been a while since I've made something but IIRC, the glue soaks into the surface of the wood a bit and you have to sand the living crap out of it to get it out that way.

A couple of threads down it's suggested that titebond is a decent cabinet glue if thinned. But I wonder if thinned glue wouldn't soak into the wood even more.

[Chuck H]

If you use ordinary carpenters glue you shouldn't have a problem. Some of the modern super glues and solvent based products are real bad about stain blocking. But normal old carpenters glue is water based. It is also higher in viscosity. It doesn't penetrate as deep as the other products and it swells the wood grain a bit which also limits penetration. Make your joint, wipe off the excess glue with a damp rag. After that, whatever routing and sanding you do to finish the joints appearance should be sufficient to prevent stain blocking. At least, it always has been that way for me. As for durability, the carpenters glue may not be as strong as some of the solvent based or two part products, but a good joint with carpenters glue will be stronger than the wood itself. It has been working for speaker cabinet makers for many decades. And how many busted joints do we really see (unless the amp fell from a building, or out of a car). Even then, the corner is what breaks, not the joint, due to it being the weakest stress point in an impact. No glue could prevent that kind of failure.

Just don't use carpenters glue if you plan to store the amp under water for any length of time. It does maintain a small amount of solubility even when dry.

HTH

Chuck

[Ptron]

Thanks Chuck. I could have been using some fancy-pants wood glue last time, or just not cleaned it up well enough.

BTW, do you know if titebond is ordinary carpenters glue? I was just at the store and noticed Elmers has regular carpenters glue and probond wood glue which I'm guessing is there answer to titebond. So I'm wondering what's the big whoop with it. They both say they are water soluable.

[Chuck H]

I expect your right about Probond and Titebond being similar products. Probond is a waterbourn polyurethane product. I haven't used either so I can't say anything about thier suitability. If I had to guess, I would think that the polyurethanes would be less soluable when dry (good thing) but also form a tighter suface barrier that is harder to sand (bad thing). It probably also has marginally more penetration. Overall, I would think that as long as your using sharp sandpaper and you change it often you'll hardly notice a difference.

HTH

Chuck

[Lizard King]

I used to have a cabinet shop. Every type of glue will not take stain the same as wood. The only way to prevent it from maring your finish is to a) wipe your joints clean with a damp cloth upon glue up and b) sand ALL the glue from your wood before staining.

[Brian L]

Original, or Titebond I is 'regular' wood glue. I've also had moderate success with rubbing matching sander dust into the joint so that any little gaps are filled AND there is wood there to take stain.