any info on Music Man 412-GS cab appreciated

[eschertron]

So I tried acetone and a razor-blade scraper today, to get the few remaining pieces of tolex - rather, the fabric backing - removed from the cab. It worked kind of meh, I ended up with the micro-plane (actually some kind of cheese-grater-like rasp) to get the fibers off, leaving only a thin layer of glue. I'm hoping a jitterbug sander will get enough of all that's left to make the effort worthwhile.



Still hoping someone will chime in on if CA glue is the right choice to stiffen the weak MDF corners.

[Leo_Gnardo]

So I tried acetone and a razor-blade scraper today, to get the few remaining pieces of tolex - rather, the fabric backing - removed from the cab. It worked kind of meh, I ended up with the micro-plane (actually some kind of cheese-grater-like rasp) to get the fibers off, leaving only a thin layer of glue. I'm hoping a jitterbug sander will get enough of all that's left to make the effort worthwhile.

Still hoping someone will chime in on if CA glue is the right choice to stiffen the weak MDF corners.

On some Fenders in this state of detolexation, I've used a belt sander to get the glue remnants and other crud off, followed that with a "mouse" sander. You could use whichever type/brand of jitterbug/orbital sander you have available. 150 grit seems enough to get a surface that's both smooth and able to have tolex glue grip to it.

On the cab corners, I'm not so sure cyanoacrylate (Krazy) glue would be the fix. I'd tend towards Franklin Titebond or its Borden "Elmers Glue" equivalent. You could add steel L brackets or 2x2 cleats on the inside to stiffen those corners.

[eschertron]

On some Fenders in this state of detolexation, I've used a belt sander to get the glue remnants and other crud off, followed that with a "mouse" sander. You could use whichever type/brand of jitterbug/orbital sander you have available. 150 grit seems enough to get a surface that's both smooth and able to have tolex glue grip to it.

On the cab corners, I'm not so sure cyanoacrylate (Krazy) glue would be the fix. I'd tend towards Franklin Titebond or its Borden "Elmers Glue" equivalent. You could add steel L brackets or 2x2 cleats on the inside to stiffen those corners.

I don't think the cab is in such bad shape that it needs steel support. It's more of an issue where the (suspected) cabinet-water interaction has left the bottom edge of the MDF flaky and soft, not enough to radically compromise the structural integrity but enough to have let the surface 'let go' of the tolex adhesive and have the binder in the MDF start to leach out. Again, it's only along the bottom edge "corner" of the back panel.

I'd like to try to reapply some of that binder, so letting some titebond soak in will be a good experiment. I thought I remembered something about edges and CA in a thread about routing corner beads on cabinets, but that could be old age talking

[Leo_Gnardo]

I don't think the cab is in such bad shape that it needs steel support. It's more of an issue where the (suspected) cabinet-water interaction has left the bottom edge of the MDF flaky and soft, not enough to radically compromise the structural integrity but enough to have let the surface 'let go' of the tolex adhesive and have the binder in the MDF start to leach out. Again, it's only along the bottom edge "corner" of the back panel.

I'd like to try to reapply some of that binder, so letting some titebond soak in will be a good experiment. I thought I remembered something about edges and CA in a thread about routing corner beads on cabinets, but that could be old age talking

In that case, regular wood glue will cost a fraction of CA glue. Good luck, I hope it works on your flakey MDF.

[eschertron]

So after cutting some holes for proper 4x12 cabinet handles, I mixed up a batch of (approx) 1:1 titebond and water, and sponged it on along the edge in question. Hopefully it will hold the MDF from 'fuzzing' and 'flaking' long enough for me to sand and prep the cab for tolex.