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  • Ultimate Hot Rod

    I'm new here and thought I'd share what I like to do to Hot Rod the Fender Hot Rod Amps.

    I always felt there was a lot of wasted space in the stock 1x12 HRD cabs and knew that they were almost the exact size as the original 5F4 Tweed Super cabs. Thought I'd give this a go...helps that I have a friend who's a woodworker to help indulge my ideas.

    I basically gut the amps, and re-use the transformers, switches, light assembly, and some hardware and build in the new circuit. The Copper Cap is in there to replace the thermistor and lower the B+ to where I want it, depending on which CC I use. To make it work in full-wave, I add a pair of diodes to ground the tube socket to complete the bridge.

    I added a bias switch, too, so I can do cathode or fixed-adjustable bias with the flip of a switch.









    There's a lot more room in the cab than it appears here. Note, the dummy plug in the main speaker jack with speakers run into the ext. speaker jack. This is the trick that I had mentioned that allows running the speakers off the OT 4ohm tap:



    I can't think of anything else to try with this amp now. The circuit is tweaked, I'm running a Tweed-style choke, I've upped the B+ a hair with a new WZ34 Copper Cap (normally I build these with a WV4), I've got the 2x10 setup going...what's left?

    Well, I'm going to look for another cheap or dead HRD to try something in a Blonde persuasion methinks. I'm toying with the idea of a 6G9 (vibrato channel only with bright switch) next.

    Thanks for looking!

  • #2
    That looks very cool, I like the 2 x 10" speakers.

    I've actually found the stock Hot Rod Deluxe amps are very easy to modify into a great sounding amp with just a few cap and resistor changes, and rewiring the stock Master volume to a post PI MV. I did this for a friend and was so impressed with how well it came out I've been watching for a cheap one too so I can fix one up for myself.

    Yoiu know, with all of these that Fender has sold, you'd think that they'd be available real cheap on the used market. but that aint the case. They hold their value unreasonably well.

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm always searching for them, too. I developed this idea not because the HRDs are cheap, but because a lot of them fry their boards. I tried to re-use as much as I could.

      The latest one I have in for a re-build is a late model (2004 or newer) Blues DeVille, and this is the first one I've seen with a PCB that actually looks to be heat resistant. It looks like there's some epoxy/fiberglass center to it, and it's not translucent.

      Anyway, this amp with the Emi 2 10s in there is really loud.

      Comment


      • #4
        I picked up a HR deville for $300. The reverb works intermitently though. No big deal.

        Hasserl? I would love to tweek mine abit. Can you give me an idea what to tweek? Do you change values of the caps or is it mostly changing type or quality.

        Comment


        • #5
          Here's my recipe for the stock PCB hot Rod Deluxes:

          PI components:

          C24: .022uF/630V - Mallory 150, Mouser part # is 539-150223J630FE
          C25: .1uF/630V - Mallory 150, Mouser part # is 539-150104J630FE
          C26: .1uF/630V - Mallory 150, Mouser part # is 539-150104J630FE
          C27: .1uF/630V - Mallory 150, Mouser part # is 539-150104J630FE


          Drive Channel coupling cap:

          C23: currently is 1.5pF (same as .0015uF), change to .0022uF or .0047uF
          -Xicon Polyester Cap part # is 140-PF2G222K for .0022uF/400V
          or
          -Xicon Polyester Cap part # is 140-PF2G472K for .0047uF/400V

          Tone Stack:

          C7: 470pF Mica - Cornell Dubilier , Mouser part # 598-CD19FD471JO3F
          R12: currently 130Kohm, change to 56Kohm
          -Xicon Carbon Film Resistor 1/4W, Mouser part #291-56K-RC (must buy 10 minimum, 4 cents each, 40 cents total)

          *recommended components (Polyester Orange Drop 225 series):
          C2: .047uF/400V - 225 Orange Drop, Mouser part # is 75-225P47394XD3
          C5: .1uF/400V - 225 Orange Drop, Mouser part # is 75-225P10494XD3
          C6: .022uF/400V - 225 Orange Drop, Mouser part # is 75-225P22394XD3
          C10: .047uF/400V - 225 Orange Drop, Mouser part # is 75-225P47394XD3

          *optional components (Mallory 150 option):
          C2: .047uF/630V - Mallory 150 cap part # is 539-150473J630FE
          C5: .1uF/630V - Mallory 150 cap part # is 539-150104J630FE
          C6: .022uF/630V - Mallory 150 cap part # is 539-150223J630FE
          C10: .047uF/630V - Mallory 150 cap part # is 539-150473J630FE

          Master Volume cap:
          C11: currently is 390pF, change to 47pF
          - 47pF Mica - Cornell Dubilier , Mouser part # 598-CD19FD470JO3

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by NTBluesGuitar View Post
            Here's my recipe for the stock PCB hot Rod Deluxes:...
            Drive Channel coupling cap:

            C23: currently is 1.5pF (same as .0015uF), change to .0022uF or .0047uF
            -Xicon Polyester Cap part # is 140-PF2G222K for .0022uF/400V
            or
            -Xicon Polyester Cap part # is 140-PF2G472K for .0047uF/400V

            ...
            Ooops!!! 1.5pF is not the same as .0015uF ha ha......
            I guess you could say 1.5nF or 1500pF though.
            Bruce

            Mission Amps
            Denver, CO. 80022
            www.missionamps.com
            303-955-2412

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Bruce / Mission Amps View Post
              Ooops!!! 1.5pF is not the same as .0015uF ha ha......
              I guess you could say 1.5nF or 1500pF though.
              DOH! Thank you, sir! Indeed it should be 1.5nF...I copied and pasted that text from an old list I had created years ago, so I didn't look at it very closely.

              What's important is the value of the new cap. That I KNOW is right!

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks So much NTBlues. Do you think these are the same componenets on the HR Deville?

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'm pretty sure they're the same, as they're in the preamp. The big differences are all in the power supply side, but I haven't checked against the schematics.

                  You ought to be able to check based on the component numbers in my list. I don't think that has changed over the years even thought the PCB layout has.

                  Now the caps in question may not fit very easily, but with care you can get them in.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Very nice work there! Good job!

                    Comment

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