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cheap experiment : run existing 1W. tube amp through a kit built 20W p[ower amp.

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  • cheap experiment : run existing 1W. tube amp through a kit built 20W p[ower amp.

    tonequester here.

    This is my first visit to this section of the forum. I am more the musician than the technician, althiugh I do have some experience in basic electronics and
    worked as an electronics assembler(avionics) years ago. My assembly ability is quite good. I have some experience at troubleshooting, repairing, and modding amps,mostly tube but some S.S. as well. Much the same with guitars and even some effects. I definitely am lacking in theory, and part of my attempt to learn more includes this little project. I have a Blackstar HT-1R, 1W. practice amp that has very good tone(my opinion), and although I want to do some kit building for the experience and some hands on education, I wished to make this project utilitatrian as well. I had the idea come to me to use the HT-1R as a pre-amp, and "tone module" and run tit through the kit amp and find out how it sounds at an increased, "clean" output. I plan to take the Ht-1R's signal from the speaker out jack, as the input to the power amp. I have read conflicting information as to how to properly do something like this. I may need an "adaptor box". I have read about the Pro Co DB1 passive direct box, and it "sounds" like it would fit the bill. Yet I have read that one could connect the two directly. I don't see how this could work and have not been able to get anywhere with Googling the subject, except
    alot of "speculation. The whole project may be "fools gold" for all that I know. I would truly appreciate any replies, opinions, or conjecture from the forum. I have learned more on this forum, in the last couple of weeks than with hours of Googling. Thanks in advance to anyone who would care to reply. tonequester.

  • #2
    Basically the idea will work, but the sound will change. First of all you will need a more or less Master volume between the two amps. You have to be somewhat careful because too much input voltage will damage most solid state amps. You may kill a few before solve that problem. Next, the tone will change depending on if you use a speaker as a load on the Blackstar or a load resistor. Some frequency shaping components may be required between the two amps to tame fizzing or farting. Lastly, the speaker that is connected to the larger amp will have an effect on the sound. You will spend some time finding the right one.
    WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
    REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !

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    • #3
      cheap experiment. maybe not so cheap !

      Originally posted by loudthud View Post
      Basically the idea will work, but the sound will change. First of all you will need a more or less Master volume between the two amps. You have to be somewhat careful because too much input voltage will damage most solid state amps. You may kill a few before solve that problem. Next, the tone will change depending on if you use a speaker as a load on the Blackstar or a load resistor. Some frequency shaping components may be required between the two amps to tame fizzing or farting. Lastly, the speaker that is connected to the larger amp will have an effect on the sound. You will spend some time finding the right one.
      tonequester here.
      Greetings loudthud ! Many thanks for the swift reply. Sounds like I,m getting into one of those "trial by error" experiences that I love so much. I've
      given some thought to the voltage input to the s.s. power amp. I wish that the "kit folks" would do a better job of giving more specs. I'm not sharp enough yet to translate
      the spec sheet for the TDA-2003 I.C. into helpful info for a given circuit, outside of the test circxuits used on the chip's data sheet. Even if I could, the specs for the power amp just ain't enough. I'll take your advice on a pot between amps. That makes sense to me, and could prevent much smoke ! The HT-1R's speaker out, when used does in fact take the on board speaker out of the picture, therefore the load resistor. After reading the spec sheet on the Pro Co DB1 passive direct box, I found that what i had read about it's use was somewhat misleading. I may very well need an adaptor like it, but the sheet makes reference to having *properly loaded speaKer output. I was worried about impedance matching for the most part, and that might be the least of my concerns despite realizing Z matching will affect tone. I plan to build a cab for the power amps speaker(s), and use the same speaker(s) that I plan to upgrade the HT-1R with,so hopefully speaker(s) WON'T be a problem concerning tone. The DB1 is supposed to
      eliminate hum and buzz and has a hi-cut filter to reduce high frequency hiss. It's also supposed to eliminate leakage,coloration,and distortion. It seems to have good reviews and is less than half price compared to the Suhr Iso Box which is apparently the "Cadillac" of these type of adaptors. If you find time to post again I'd be interested in what value of master volume pot you wight suggest to try. Thanks again for your input/output ! tonequester.

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      • #4
        Here, this might have some value to you.

        line-out on guitar amp - diyAudio
        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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        • #5
          [QUOTE=Enzo;264272]Here, this might have some value to you.

          line-out on guitar amp - diyAudio[/QUOTE


          tonequester here,

          Thanks for the lead Enzo ! I'll follow up on it just as soon as i'm through checking out the forum for replies on a couple of other things that I posted in other
          sections of said forum. Can't tell you just how helpful you have been to me in the last few weeks. I can only hop that someday I might have a tip for you(don't hold your breath). I hope you and yours all good things !
          tonequester.

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