I've had Groove Tubes run hot enough to brown the paint markings a bit and they performed and sounded fine in the same amp with the same bias for over two years. I think Groove Tubes has that special paint set up to brown too easily so they can sell more tubes. If they still work and sound fine, they are. As for the Sylvania, same thing basically. A tube can usually tolerate a red plate condition for a while without failure. So, if it's still working and sounding good, it is.
As a general rule always start out biased 60% to 75% of a tubes max diss spec when biasing for AB1. Example: Max diss=25W, 25WX.75=18.75W, Vp is 450 so, 450VX40mA=18W, 40mA per tube is a good place to start at 450Vp. Now... If you had, say, 350Vp on a tube with the same max diss spec then... 350VX54mA=18.9W, so at 350Vp that 54mA marking would be accurate. In truth the 54mA inducation on the tube is probably a number that has to do with matching parameters used by whomever matched the tubes and has nothing whatever to do with your application other than to indicate that all the tubes you bought are within a certain range under certain test conditions, and presumably therefore "matched".
Now, 464VpX35mA=16.2W So your biased now at 65% diss at idle. If it sounds good, it is good. Nothing to stop you from biasing hotter if it sounds good EXCEPT if the tubes misbehave (red plates, cutting out, etc.) Whatever bias gives you the tone you like and doesn't cause the tubes to misbehave is correct. Hotter bias will usually wear out tubes faster than a cooler bias. ALSO, when experimenting with tubes of different make, brand, design, age or rating ALWAYS adjust the bias specifically for the tubes in use. Every tube has a different ideal bias condition to achieve the ideal dissapation at idle. And always use an oven mit when changing hot tubes (OUCH). That's it.
P.S. It sounds like once properly adjusted your new build is working properly with minimal corrections. Nice work.
As a general rule always start out biased 60% to 75% of a tubes max diss spec when biasing for AB1. Example: Max diss=25W, 25WX.75=18.75W, Vp is 450 so, 450VX40mA=18W, 40mA per tube is a good place to start at 450Vp. Now... If you had, say, 350Vp on a tube with the same max diss spec then... 350VX54mA=18.9W, so at 350Vp that 54mA marking would be accurate. In truth the 54mA inducation on the tube is probably a number that has to do with matching parameters used by whomever matched the tubes and has nothing whatever to do with your application other than to indicate that all the tubes you bought are within a certain range under certain test conditions, and presumably therefore "matched".
Now, 464VpX35mA=16.2W So your biased now at 65% diss at idle. If it sounds good, it is good. Nothing to stop you from biasing hotter if it sounds good EXCEPT if the tubes misbehave (red plates, cutting out, etc.) Whatever bias gives you the tone you like and doesn't cause the tubes to misbehave is correct. Hotter bias will usually wear out tubes faster than a cooler bias. ALSO, when experimenting with tubes of different make, brand, design, age or rating ALWAYS adjust the bias specifically for the tubes in use. Every tube has a different ideal bias condition to achieve the ideal dissapation at idle. And always use an oven mit when changing hot tubes (OUCH). That's it.
P.S. It sounds like once properly adjusted your new build is working properly with minimal corrections. Nice work.
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