Originally posted by The Dude
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K-MOD101 Kit DYI Amp -40% Voltage at V1 plate (12AX7 pin 6)
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Pins 4 of the power tubes are SCREEN grids. And I kinda think those resistors are not going to ground, but to B+ instead.
Pin 5 is the CONTROL grid.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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I always get frustrated trying to figure out reasonable bias voltages because everyone says "you don't set a voltage, you set the bias based on current" and won't even give a range or a starting point. I think if you start with a bias of something like -60V you will be safe for either type of tube, but perhaps very cold, but I am happy to be corrected.
We don't specify certain voltage because all tubes are different. But unless they are odd, they will tend to fall into a range. Likewise, I can't specify a particular current as we don't know what the plate voltages will be .
Some OEMs will specify a bias VOLTAGE, because they know that most tubes will operate at reasonable range at that voltage.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Originally posted by Enzo View PostPins 4 of the power tubes are SCREEN grids. And I kinda think those resistors are not going to ground, but to B+ instead.
Pin 5 is the CONTROL grid.
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Originally posted by glebert View PostI always get frustrated trying to figure out reasonable bias voltages because everyone says "you don't set a voltage, you set the bias based on current" and won't even give a range or a starting point. I think if you start with a bias of something like -60V you will be safe for either type of tube, but perhaps very cold, but I am happy to be corrected.
I do understand what you are asking though, and I usually look at equivalent established circuits for ballpark numbers.
Your suggestion of -60V for a safe start point also seems reasonable (for typical grid drive class AB).Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g1 View PostIn this case he has cathode resistors, which is why I asked for the voltage at the power tube cathodes. Then idle dissipation can be quickly calculated, and we can either say 'bias voltage needs to go more negative' etc.
if i understand correctly what you are suggesting is that I measure VOLTAGE from PIN 1 (or 8 as rhey are bridged) to GROUND and having a 1 Ohm Resistor my X mV readings will be equivalent to X mA
then adjust the BIAS knob until I am around 35 mA in each tube
is that right?
any further calculations necessary (using plate voltage, etc)?
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Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostTHe schematic shows 1.2R (not 1.0R) cathode resistors. So 35mV corresponds to only 29mA cathode current.
I forgot to mention that the actual resistors in the amp are 1 Ohm (BROWN, BLACK, GOLDEN stripes)
the coldest BIAS voltage is -48 VDC. I got 35 mV DC at both tubes with -37 V.
Plate Voltage was 482 VDC
is that OK?
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Originally posted by TelRay View Postyou are (as always) totally right
I forgot to mention that the actual resistors in the amp are 1 Ohm (BROWN, BLACK, GOLDEN stripes)
the coldest BIAS voltage is -48 VDC. I got 35 mV DC at both tubes with -37 V.
Plate Voltage was 482 VDC
is that OK?- Own Opinions Only -
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Why on earth would someone use 1.2 ohm resistors in that application? It isn't difficult to punch it into a calculator, but harder to do in your head.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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maybe the last (hopefully the last!) thing to fix on this amp is the complaint from my friend that the VOLUME control is always too loud and does not go down fully even with the VOLUME KNOB at ZERO.
so, I went a bit deeper into the SYMPTOM:
- there is SOUND with the VOLUME KNOB at ZERO
- this SOUND is not affected by BASS or TREBLE
- going UP in VOLUME to something close to the "ONE" mark the SOUND starts to be affected by the TREBLE and BASS controls
what I've checked:
- completely removed the VOLUME POT from the circuit and measured 20 Ohm to 1,016 kOhm from the wiper to both HOT and COLD lugs (it is a 1M pot). So I think the range the pot is controlling is OK
- all connections between VOLUME, TREBLE, BASS are according to the schematics (though there's always the chance I've missed something)
- VOLUME pot correctly GROUNDED through the INPUT JACK
the only thing that seemed odd to me is that both the VOLUME and TREBLE pot housings showed continuity to GROUND but not the BASS pot. However I connected it to GROUND and there was still SOUND at 0 VOLUME
https://www.modkitsdiy.com/sites/mod...structions.pdf
thanks for the help in advance!
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