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Handwired rebuild of Princeton Reverb Reissue - Rectifier?

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  • Handwired rebuild of Princeton Reverb Reissue - Rectifier?

    Hi All,

    I just picked up a used Princeton Reverb Reissue from a friend for a great deal, and I'm looking to gut it and put in a handwired circuit. Was looking to get a kit on it, but the deal for the reissue was too hard to pass up. Thing is, all the schematics of Blackface Princeton Reverbs I've found have a 5U4 rectifier, but the reissue comes with a 5AR4 rectifier, and I'm planning on keeping the stock power transformer in there. Will there be a problem using a 5U4 rectifier with its current draw with the stock PT in the new handwired circuit?

  • #2
    What is the part number on the actual PT?
    Magnetic Component's parent company could be the actual winder and they'd have all the data.... however, I would be cautious too. It most likely is a 5v@+2A winding.
    But why not just use a 5AR4/GZ34 if the PT was made for it?
    Bruce

    Mission Amps
    Denver, CO. 80022
    www.missionamps.com
    303-955-2412

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    • #3
      If I can interject, what are the concerns with swapping rectifier tubes in general?

      Heater current
      B+ output

      what else
      ~Semi-No0b Hobbyist~

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Bruce / Mission Amps View Post
        What is the part number on the actual PT?
        Magnetic Component's parent company could be the actual winder and they'd have all the data.... however, I would be cautious too. It most likely is a 5v@+2A winding.
        But why not just use a 5AR4/GZ34 if the PT was made for it?
        Thanks for replying, Bruce. I've actually been trying to look up the part # of the stock PT for the reissue and look up its specs. But along the way, I did read a review where it was mentioned that Fender recommends against a 5U4 because of the current draw, which tells me that it's only 2A at the PT for a GZ34. I'd just like to be able to run a 5U4 and more 'crunchy' 6V6s for earlier breakup and less headroom, as well as JJ's and a GZ34 for more headroom and a little louder playing/gigging.

        For now, I do have a Weber copper cap 5U4, but I also have an NOS GE 5U4 I was hoping to put in there. Maybe down the road I'll get the PT from Mojo which has 5V 4A...even though their kit ships with a GZ34 (weird). Other places have replacement PT's that say they are for Princetons, but they're 5V 2A as well.
        Last edited by RC99; 03-26-2013, 03:21 AM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by mort View Post
          If I can interject, what are the concerns with swapping rectifier tubes in general?

          Heater current
          B+ output

          what else
          For me it's more about the rectifier heater current, as I'd like to switch to a 5U4 for more sag and lower headroom at times and run more 'traditional' type 6V6s other than JJ's.

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          • #6
            The reason the 5U4GB was used has nothing to do with sag... especially with respect to little 15 watt amp and a modern PT wound specifically for a 5AR4.
            You could try a GZ30 (not GZ34) or 5V4GA too.
            If you want sag, put a 5 watt resistor in series with the B+ line from the rectifier to the first filter cap... mess with a a few hundred ohms until you get what you are looking for.
            Bruce

            Mission Amps
            Denver, CO. 80022
            www.missionamps.com
            303-955-2412

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks again, Bruce. I got the reissue in...holy crap is that stock Jensen C10R bright! Plugged it into a Weber ceramic Blue Dog and Jensen Neo 12 I had in other amps and it's night & day warmer and not nearly as grating. Man, I wonder how many sales they've lost from people trying this out and passing because of that icepick speaker. Anyway, I put the Weber WU4 into that and biased a set of NOS 6V6GTY's to around 20 and it's quite nice. Still has some of that reissue 'hardness' that I remember being like with Deluxe Reverb reissues vs. handwired versions and the real thing. Looking forward to handwiring for this one.

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