5E3 Build Blowing Fuses

[Munga]

Now that's new information.

Either the Weber Copper cap is bad or something downline from it is drawing too much current.
Is the standby switch in the "standby" position when this happens?
If it is then it's the copper cap or a bad switch (low probability but not impossible)

If you disconnect the lead from the rectifier socket pin 8 to the standby switch and the fuse still blows, then it's a bad copper cap.

Tom

Ok, I disconnected the lead from pin 8, and plugged it in. The light still makes that humming sound, so it must be the Copper Cap, right?

[Tom Phillips]

Ok, I disconnected the lead from pin 8, and plugged it in. The light still makes that humming sound, so it must be the Copper Cap, right?

Yep. I think so. With nothing connected to pin 8 there should be no load on the PT secondary and there sould be no loud humming. If that humming is not present when you pull the copper cap out, then I say that it's bad.
Tom

[Enzo]

Pull the copper cap out and measure it with an ohm meter. Is there low resistance between pin 8 and either 4 or 6? Is ther low resistance between pin2 and either 4 or 6? There should not be. if there is, one of the diodes is shorted inside.

[Munga]

No resistance anywhere. A tech suggested I use a diode tester. Theres continuity between 8 and 6-4 but none between 2 and 6-4.

[Munga]

Ok, so here is the dealio:
I decided to do a quick and easy test by trying to get a 5y3 tube, and seeing if that would solve the problem, and plus, I would probably choose it over the CC anyway, so it wasn't a big monetary deal. However, NOWHERE has them. Finally, I decided to call up the tech who Fender sent me to fix my ****ty Hot Rod Deluxe. Last time I went there he was sort of negative because he was sick of fixing PCB Fenders and Marshalls, and just wanted to work on some "real" amps. However, this time, I went over there and he was really excited that I actually made this amp and had an interest in it. So, he helped me test it, and we came to the conclusion that the Power Transformer is indeed faulty. We used his Variac, and the amp was pulling 5 amps at 120 volts. Basically, what he said was the yellow high voltage wires were shorted internally, and read 100 ohms from lead to chassis. So, I guess I have to call Weber and get a new one. What a drag.
Anyone have to do similar things with Weber? How is his customer service?

[Bruce / Mission Amps]

Seems like I recall there has been a few other builders having problems with their Weber PTs going bad ... Check their BBS.

If it was a new build and you are sure it was wired right, I'd just tell them you want a new one.

[Munga]

Seems like I recall there has been a few other builders having problems with their Weber PTs going bad ... Check their BBS.

If it was a new build and you are sure it was wired right, I'd just tell them you want a new one.

I did, and they sent me a new one no questions asked. Just got it in the mail. Thats some of the best customer service I have ever seen.

[Munga]

Sorry for forgeting to reply to this thread. It turns out the PT was bad, so Weber sent me a new PT and it was all fine and dandy. I was wondering. How much effect does the tone knob have on the amp? At the moment, it doesn't have that much of an effect.

[Bruce / Mission Amps]

Sorry for forgeting to reply to this thread. It turns out the PT was bad, so Weber sent me a new PT and it was all fine and dandy. I was wondering. How much effect does the tone knob have on the amp? At the moment, it doesn't have that much of an effect.

I wonder if Weber must have gotten a few tranny clams from his Chinese winder... seems like there has been conversation about a few bad power transformers.

Yes, if the tone control doesn't do much, it is wired wrong or the parts are misarked.
It is much more effective on the bright channel.