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5E3 Build Finally Done!

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  • 5E3 Build Finally Done!

    Thanks for all the help I received on this board during my 5E3 Build. Its finally done, and sounds great. The circuit is essentially stock, with the exception that it only has two input jacks (one each channel) instead of four. I used mostly Weber parts. The only exceptions were the coupling caps, where I went with Mallory 150's, and the OT, which I got from Triode Electronics. The Triode OT was the only one I could find with 4, 8, and 16 outputs, and it was only $20.00. I used an old Stromberg Carlson PA chassis, which required a "backwards" layout.

    Pic links are below.

    http://i18.tinypic.com/2houxra.jpg

    http://i10.tinypic.com/40kbxcm.jpg

    http://i12.tinypic.com/2wgzxba.jpg

  • #2
    I think thats terrific- very original & authentically looks 50's too. How do you rate the Triode OT? And what PT are you using with it? Im planning a scratch build & seen the Triode one at great prices too..

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    • #3
      Thanks. It sounds great! The interactive volume controls take some experimentation, but that's just the 5E3 circuit. I like the way it cleans up, but also can get very crunchy. I got a Weber mini mass attenuator for xmas, and have been using it as a master volume to take down the loudness (I only play at home).

      I give the OT great reviews. I got the paper bobbin b/c it had a 16 ohm output. I ordered from Triode once before and was very happy with what I got (can cap and OT for champ). I was skeptical b/c of the price, but it sounds great and appears to be a well built part. I wouldn't be affraid to get anything from them. I got my PT from Weber (www.tedweber.com) as well as most of the other parts other than the OT. I have been happy with it as well, but woudn't be affraid to try the PT from Triode either.

      Good luck on your build.

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      • #4
        Ill be sending off for one then, good stuff. How does the 'interactive' vol work- Ive just realised the 2 vols are not 'vol' and 'master vol' are they, but correspond to the 2 inputs, and the 3rd and 4th inputs are 'spares'? have you tried jumpering -whatever that does- between some of them?
        Your amp looks a bit like a clock, or I must admit it does remind me of my dads old teasmaid... I joke of course -very cool indeed. happy new year!

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        • #5
          Others here can explain the science behind the two volume controls, but not I! LOL. This is my impression of it. When plugged into one channel, turning the other one to 50% maximizes your mids and "crunch." Turn the unused channel all the way up, and your sounds cleans up nicely, scoops out the mids. It almost is like a "gain" knob, backwards. LOL. Its an interesting circuit and I'm having a lot of fun with it.

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          • #6
            The interactive volume controls are wired such that at the input grid of v2 you have resistance in parallel with the vol control for the channel you are using,when you adjust the control for the "other" channel,you change the parallel resistance and thereby the frequency response of the signal into that grid.I find that with the unused channel turned all the way down,I have maximum "mids",as this control is turned up it begins to scoop the mids till as gtrbryan said turned full up the mids are drastically sccooped.I like to use an A/B switch on the input and have one channel almost full and the other a bit past mid and you have a nice 2 channel amp set for rythm and lead.Nice looking build,gtrbryan,I have a similar one built into an old 1950's Chicago Webster PA head,love that '50's sci-fi look.Try the Paul C. mod on the PI,it gives you a little extra headroom,which is real useful if you use humbuckers.

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            • #7
              Thanks. I knew someone would come along and explain the science involved in the volume controls!

              What is the Paul C Mod?

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              • #8
                http://people.cornell.edu/pages/mt24...m/mm_main.html this is a link to a site that shows the Paul C mod.It will increase head room a bit.Playing humbuckers in the 5E3 sends the amp into overdrive too quick in my opinion,this will give you a little more room till it breaks up.It is not a drastic improvement,but with other tweaks you can increase the effect even more.

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                • #9
                  Bryan,
                  Very nice. Thanks for posting pictures. A good example of true point-to-point wiring. Interesting filler plates holding the PT. Did you cut up a carpenter's square to make those?
                  Regards,
                  Tom

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                  • #10
                    Yeah. I had a metal yardstick that had bent and I was going to throw away. I needed a couple pieces of metal as the new transformer was much smaller than the one that was originally in the case. I only painted the outside black, so you can still see the numbers on the inside.

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                    • #11
                      Cool. You're a good recycler.

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