My latest build. A 5e3 clone.

[sportster4eva]

Here's a shot of the back of my latest build. It's a 5e3 clone with a little tweak here and there. This little baby rocks! the change I made to the tone circuit makes it very versatile. I don't have any sound clips yet, because you guys would cringe if I recorded myself playing..lol I have a photobucket folder with pics of the build from start to finish if anyone wants to check it out.

http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...a/5e3-project/

[The Captain]

Superb work there- it makes my build in progress look a right dog's dinner! What is the Aerovox cap on the tone/ vol pot- is this the only tweak?

[sportster4eva]

Superb work there- it makes my build in progress look a right dog's dinner! What is the Aerovox cap on the tone/ vol pot- is this the only tweak?

Almost..
The other pair of tone caps in parallel are silver mica mil spec jobs, and are a "slightly" lower value than called out in the schematic, the Aerovox cap is also smaller than called out in the schem. Those old Aerovox caps. are paper/foil too. It gave the tone knob a different kind of range. Past 8 it gives you a nice mid boost, and at 6-7 it almost scoops the mids. I'm not a fan of ceramics...usually.
I also used 1K Dale 1%er's to the screens of the power tubes, both as a safety factor, and so I could meter screen current.
I changed the value of the resistor feeding the preamp tubes supply cap.
All the orange caps are Sprague PVC, but I used the last ones I had. Hope I can locate some more.
Thanks for the compliment Captain! More builds coming!

[HTH]

very tidy work - don't tell me you built the cab too, that would just make you too much of a smarty pants

btw, you've never seen a dog's dinner wiring job till you've seen my amps. oh well, at least they sound good (eventually)

[George Archer]

Cabinet front lateral panels

Hello, I'm a new member here and I would like some information regarding the front lateral panels on Sportster's cabinet. I've just completed my Mission 5E3 kit and now its time to build my own cabinet.

Sportster4eva, did you just glue in those front panels and if so, can you tell me if the panels would be strong enough to take the weight and vibrations of the speaker and baffle.

Any information regarding the above problem would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

George

[sportster4eva]

very tidy work - don't tell me you built the cab too, that would just make you too much of a smarty pants

btw, you've never seen a dog's dinner wiring job till you've seen my amps. oh well, at least they sound good (eventually)

That's what were doing this for.. The sound! It don't have to be a beauty contest winner to sound great! Look inside some of the old point to point amps by some well known names.. (like Bell and Knight, and others) They aren't the nicest things to look at, but they're functionally right. Actually, I did build the cabinet, but not because I'm a smarty pants..lol.. It's because I'm frugal, ie:cheap! The whole cab cost me less than $50, including finishing. It's made of poplar wood, because it's light and hard and strong. It's not a "tone wood" per se, but it is considered a hardwood, and many hardwoods are toneful. The selection of pine here where I am is not the best, so it was an easy choice. The only downside is it's hard to finish because of the greenish tint the wood has. Clear sealer first then a shading coat to even it out. I used Shellac, but laquer works too. I used shellac because it's non toxic, and alcohol based. It dries really fast, so you have to be quick, or it smears. Laquer is nasty stuff, and I work in the basement, and my liver thanks me for it! Tolex would save me all the trouble of the finish work, but hey... what the heck. I love the look of a natural finish.

Hello, I'm a new member here and I would like some information regarding the front lateral panels on Sportster's cabinet. I've just completed my Mission 5E3 kit and now its time to build my own cabinet.

Sportster4eva, did you just glue in those front panels and if so, can you tell me if the panels would be strong enough to take the weight and vibrations of the speaker and baffle.

Any information regarding the above problem would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

George

I didn't want to have any screws or holes showing so I drilled countersunk holes about 1/2" deep in the top lateral rail, and 3/8" in the bottom of the cab. Four in each, spaced about 4" apart. I went from the bottom of the cab up for the bottom rail so you wouldn't see anything. What I did was glue and clamp them into place, and while the clamps were still on I drilled pilot holes and screwed them babies tight. No way they're coming loose! I used 1-1/2" sheet metal screws, because IMHO they hold a lot better than wood screws when you sock them up tight. I put a dab of glue on the screws as I drove them in too, for insurance.

[George Archer]

Thanks Sportster4eva. So you just glued the top panel in place. Nice cab. I hope mine turns out as good.

Thanks, George

[sportster4eva]

George,
I glued and screwed both in place. I was worried too that they would break loose due to age/vibration. That's why I glued and screwed them. The original Fender cabs had like a rabbet top and bottom and the front rails went all the way to the edges of the cabinet. I didn't want to go to the trouble of the extra cuts, so I did it this way.

[David Schwab]

It's made of poplar wood, because it's light and hard and strong. It's not a "tone wood" per se, but it is considered a hardwood, and many hardwoods are toneful.

I'm a guitar maker. Poplar is a very nice sounding wood! All those old Danelectros had poplar necks. A buddy of mine made a Les Paul Junior with a poplar neck, korina body, and a curly oak top. Boy that guitar sang!

I bet it would sound great in this beauty of an amp you made. Very nice work!

[George Archer]

Speaker installation

Hi, can you folks tell me how you install your speakers. I was just going to use normals bolts and nuts but doing it this way would mean if I wanted to change speaker in would have to dismantle the grill cloth from the baffle before I could loosen the bolts. Are there any special bolts/screws that are used for this application.

While I'm here could anyone also explain the use of the external speaker in my Mission 5E3 delux. I know the internal speaker is 8 ohms and the external speaker should be rated for 4 ohms. Can I use an external speaker while my internal is still plugged in and if so does it have to be 4 ohms.

Thanks for any help with the above problems.

George

[TD_Madden]

External 8-ohm cab would be just fine.

[steve]

George,

Look for a product called a T-nut. They're sold at Lowes, Home Depot, and hardware stores.

steve

Hi, can you folks tell me how you install your speakers. I was just going to use normals bolts and nuts but doing it this way would mean if I wanted to change speaker in would have to dismantle the grill cloth from the baffle before I could loosen the bolts. Are there any special bolts/screws that are used for this application.
George

[Gee]

sportster4eva - Your build is an inspiration. I cant believe how straight you have made the filament wires. That truly is a skill.

[George Archer]

T-nuts

Hi Steve, thanks for the reply. I actually live in Germany so we don't have any Lowes or Home depots here. I tried the internet at these sites but couldn't find anything about the nuts so I'll keep trying.

Cheers

George

[George Archer]

External speaker

Thanks TD_Madden.

So I can use an 8 ohm external speaker as well as the 8 ohm internal speaker, bothe running at the same time. Why does it say 4 ohms at the speaker input.

Thanks

George