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Heater Wire Center Tap & Output Tranformer B+ Connection Questions

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  • Heater Wire Center Tap & Output Tranformer B+ Connection Questions

    Hi,

    I am building a 5E3 Tweed Deluxe and the power transformer I am using does not have a center tap for the heater wires, so I will need to create an artificial one using two 100 Ohm resisters. I know the two resistors need to come off the pilot light assembly where the heater wires meet the pilot light assembly. But, where should I ground them to? In looking at pictures of a Clark Beautfort, it looks like they simply ground them by soldering them to the back of the pilot light assembly. Is this how it is done or is there a better way to do it?

    Also, is it better to connect the B+ wire from the output transformer to the board where the 4.7K & left most 16uf filter cap come to a junction or run the B+ wire to the standby switch?

    Thanks for your help!

  • #2
    Heater Ground

    The two 100 ohm resistors meet at chassis ground.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Jman View Post
      Hi,

      I am building a 5E3 Tweed Deluxe and the power transformer I am using does not have a center tap for the heater wires, so I will need to create an artificial one using two 100 Ohm resisters. I know the two resistors need to come off the pilot light assembly where the heater wires meet the pilot light assembly. But, where should I ground them to? In looking at pictures of a Clark Beautfort, it looks like they simply ground them by soldering them to the back of the pilot light assembly. Is this how it is done or is there a better way to do it?

      Also, is it better to connect the B+ wire from the output transformer to the board where the 4.7K & left most 16uf filter cap come to a junction or run the B+ wire to the standby switch?

      Thanks for your help!
      Better to have your OT CT wire on the filter cap as this is where the power tubes pull current from.
      Jon Wilder
      Wilder Amplification

      Originally posted by m-fine
      I don't know about you, but I find it a LOT easier to change a capacitor than to actually learn how to play well
      Originally posted by JoeM
      I doubt if any of my favorite players even own a soldering iron.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Jman

        To get a quieter amp, you can run your 2 x 100R resistors from either side of the heater winding to the 6V6 cathode(s). This will elevate the heaters at the 6V6 cathode voltage (about 18-20V), which should quieten down any possible heater noise from the pre-amp filaments.

        Or you can make a voltage divider off your B+ line at your 1st (reservoir) filter cap, and run your 2 x 100R artificial ground reference resistors to that. If you are going to do this, figure on using about 220k overall between the B+ and the ground, and it will double as a bleeder network for discharging the filter caps. Within this 220k itself, if you aim for a voltage divider than gives you (say) up to about 60VDC elevation at the knee assuming a B+ of around 360VDC or so, then you will need an 18% divider (60/360 = ~18%). So if the overall resistance needed is 220k (for the overall divider to double as a good bleeder network), then 18% (of 220k) will be 39.6k (say 39k) for the ground leg, which means you will need ~180k for the upper resistor (39k + 180k = 219k, which is close enough). Use a 10uF - 47uF 100V electrolytic cap to ground in parallel with the 39k in order to decouple any ripple at the knee of the divider.
        Building a better world (one tube amp at a time)

        "I have never had to invoke a formula to fight oscillation in a guitar amp."- Enzo

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        • #5
          Thanks

          Thanks for your input, this helped a lot!

          Comment

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