OK Cap, this is driving me crazy. The answer is right there waiting to be found. We know that your amp will work correctly if there are no wiring errors, the component values are correct, and you have no defective components.
I wouldn't change component values to correct the tone problem yet. There's a bad component or a wiring error that has to be found. The 5E3 is one of the greatest amps ever, stick with it. There is a community out here that is rooting for you.
If you haven't yet, I suggest you lift a leg on that tone cap you grounded to the bright volume pot. You have one channel that's acting like it has a low pass filter, fixed value and always on. The tone cap, connected wrong, could produce that effect.
Next, I would confirm that each component in the amp has the value specified on your layout diagram. Special care with the resistors and the multiplier bands (470 ohm vs. 470K ohm, etc.). Circle each component on the diagram after it is checked. (BTW, run an extra copy of the layout so you always have a clean one.)
Then, go to each solder joint in turn and confirm that every connection to that joint is as specified in the layout. Circle each joint after you check it. If you have hidden connections under the board, use a multimeter to confirm continuity.
I have done this kind of checking and found the flaw on the fourth iteration. It is so easy to overlook your own mistake...Sorry if I seem too pushy. This just my opinion.
Regarsd,
Rick
I wouldn't change component values to correct the tone problem yet. There's a bad component or a wiring error that has to be found. The 5E3 is one of the greatest amps ever, stick with it. There is a community out here that is rooting for you.
If you haven't yet, I suggest you lift a leg on that tone cap you grounded to the bright volume pot. You have one channel that's acting like it has a low pass filter, fixed value and always on. The tone cap, connected wrong, could produce that effect.
Next, I would confirm that each component in the amp has the value specified on your layout diagram. Special care with the resistors and the multiplier bands (470 ohm vs. 470K ohm, etc.). Circle each component on the diagram after it is checked. (BTW, run an extra copy of the layout so you always have a clean one.)
Then, go to each solder joint in turn and confirm that every connection to that joint is as specified in the layout. Circle each joint after you check it. If you have hidden connections under the board, use a multimeter to confirm continuity.
I have done this kind of checking and found the flaw on the fourth iteration. It is so easy to overlook your own mistake...Sorry if I seem too pushy. This just my opinion.
Regarsd,
Rick
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