Mission kit with turret board question

[dragonbat13]

I want to build a mission kit with a turret board. If I can get it through mission I will do that.

My question is this, Will it be any more involved using a turret board instead of the eyelet board that comes with the kit?

Also, Does anybody know who makes the best turret board for this kit if mission doesnt offer one?

Thanks

[fyl]

If you want to stick with a standard layo, Angela and others sell Chinese-sourced 2 mm boards

Turret Board for Fender 5E3 Tweed Deluxe Style Homebrew Amps

Triode EL has a made in USA board in red swirl (or other colors)

5E3 Fender Tweed Deluxe Turret Board

IMO the nicest boards are made by Ken Watts.

Watts Tube Audio ~ Everything Tube Amps!

[Lefty W.]

I just finished a Mission kit using a 5E3 turret board from Ken Watts (turretboards.com). My first build. I ordered the board with wider spacing for Sprague Atom filter caps. The turret board comes without mounting holes in it, so I ended up drilling four holes to match the four holes already in the chassis as it came from Mission. You might have an easier time just drilling new holes in the corners of the turret board and drilling new holes in the chassis.

Be aware that the fit is a little tight if using a turret board. The standard Mission eyelet board is screwed directly to the chassis, but you will probably want to use standoffs with a turret board, plus the turrets raise the components off of the board, so all in all, you are losing about an inch of space. I ended up waiting to mount the filter caps to the board until after the turret board was already mounted, and I had to turn the indicator lamp socket just so to get everything to fit.

I'll see if I can post some photos tonight.

[Lefty W.]

Another thing to consider - sometimes, the multiple components and flying leads won't all fit into the top of a turret, even though you can enlarge the turret holes somewhat. There were at least a couple of turrets I had to wrap wires around rather than fitting them all in the top. You won't have this issue with eyelets.

[fyl]

you will probably want to use standoffs with a turret board

You may use a backing board and mount directly to the chassis. But, yes, tweed chassis are very cramped, even using standard boards and components.

[Bruce / Mission Amps]

I am dumbfounded by any of the builders (especially novice builders) wanting a custom made turret board rather then the tried and true eyelet board... somebody, please enlighten me as to desiring "that" over "this"... etc.

[dragonbat13]

I had considered the space issue. I have never worked with a turret board before and wanted to try one. I had also kinda considered the heat issue on the components and thought maybe the turret board would give a little cooling. But considering all the issues involving it in this build I will just go with the eyelet board.

[fyl]

I am dumbfounded by any of the builders (especially novice builders) wanting a custom made turret board rather then the tried and true eyelet board... somebody, please enlighten me as to desiring "that" over "this"... etc.

Old-style eyelet boards are OK, but a proper turret board accepts modern components with short leads, will not warp, isn't hygroscopic and will not become conductive...

[Lefty W.]

Old-style eyelet boards are OK, but a proper turret board accepts modern components with short leads, will not warp, isn't hygroscopic and will not become conductive...

Years ago I had an early-60s Bandmaster (6G7-A, best tremolo ever) that would make intermittent crackling noises. I took it up the road a piece to Gerald Weber/Kendrick Amps. The tech he assigned to the project believed the eyelet board had become conductive, as it had spent much of its life in humid conditions.

So, when I started doing research for my own 5E3 project, I ran across the Hoffman board site (Tube amp Board Making), and I decided I wanted to use a garolite turret board, which hopefully will not become conductive, despite the humidity here in Texas. Perhaps a bit much for a newbie to take on, but I am certainly pleased with the results.

[guitarmike2107]

yes but a eyelet board made with g10 will perform the same as a turret board made with g10

My first build was a 5E3 type amp with eyelets, having since built a number of amps and I have developed a preference for turrets
I have built another 5e3 amp with a turret board, it was tight, the biggest issue was around the input jack sockets.
It was a neat build and I would use turrets again… in fact I plan to on an up and coming bassman build.

[Bruce / Mission Amps]

Ah, OK. I guess the operative words are proper turret boards.... I build all my own boards and use all G10 too so there is no hygroscopic issue, no warping, I use two different eyelet sizes to remedy the dreaded, "there's too many wires in one small eyelet problem" and my eyelet spacing is closer across the board for the shorter lead lengths found with almost all modern components now. (I've noticed that is getting worse, by the way.)
I'm not a fan of turret board construction or turret boards myself. I do find the turret boards a bit harder to build from scratch though.
They do look impressive but there is no other real improvement in function for me.... and certainly no improvement in tone of the amp using them.

[Casey4s]

I think things like this are generally subjective. Modern eyelet boads like Bruce's are a far cry from the vintage boards. I used eyelet boards, or tag strips until around 1998 when I got my first fistfull of turrets and G10 from Doug hoffman. For my personal building style I prefer working with turrets partly because "to me" it is simplier to change, modify or trouble shoot. But I have found that many of the eyelet guys say exactly the same thing is why they prefer eyelets. To me it's a "wash" and comes down to personal preferance.

When I make a board, I lay each component out and space each turret location based on it's size although most of the time my turrets wind up pretty even but turret spacing is not written in stone any more than it is with eyelets. I try to make my boards (turret spacing) fit the components as opposed to making the components fit an inflexable board design.

It's just a matter of working styles IMHO...