5E3 Different brand caps in the different channels?

[Chuck H]

Hey, running long on some projects. I'll have to work on the layout and schem tomorrow night. Thanks.

[cmattdabrat]

No problem. Take your time. Thanks!

[Chuck H]

Sorry for the delay... I used a Ceriatone layout because it's easy to work with on MSPaint and already has the modern upgrades like three prong grounded AC, standby switch and twisted pair filaments.

I added a bias supply and switch, diode/tube rectifier switch and screen resistors. I "upgraded" the value/rating on a couple of components and altered the impedance switch to reflect whats possible with the Hammond OT. I simply extended the board a little to accomodate the bias supply. If you build on a pre made board you can always build the bias supply on a perf board and mount it wherever it'll fit. The "test point" for the bias can be any chassis mount isolated terminal. It's just a place to touch your meter pin to for a reading. I'm pretty sure this is complete, if there's a typo or other mistake someone here will find it I'm sure.

FWIW it occured to me that the implementation is a little clumbsy. The switching shouldn't be used with 6V6 tubes, only the 6L6's. What this means is that if you were, for example, to switch into diode rectifier with 6V6's in there could be a tube failure. Not because of the circuit but because the 6V6 tubes can't handle the extra voltage. So while the amp will be able to play as a basically stock 5E3 or a higher wattage 6L6 type 5E3 the two modes are somewhat exclusive and having switches on the chassis increases the possibility of a mistake. My solution would be to simply use 6L6's in the amp full time. It will still have about the same output as with 6V6's unless you use the switches. In the diode rectifier/fixed bias mode the amp will have about twice the power. You can of course plug in 6V6's in the cathode bias/tube rectifier mode for a further decrease in headroom when you really want to get crunchy.

Also, don't neglect the speaker efficiency issue. A lowish efficiency speaker in the combo will decrease volume a lot. Then with an extension cab and a high efficiency speaker you could switch to 6L6's and get really loud cleans or blow your face off crunch. With several volume options in between the two. Anyway... Here it is. Additions and changes are in purple.

[cmattdabrat]

Sorry for the delay... I used a Ceriatone layout because it's easy to work with on MSPaint and already has the modern upgrades like three prong grounded AC, standby switch and twisted pair filaments.

I added a bias supply and switch, diode/tube rectifier switch and screen resistors. I "upgraded" the value/rating on a couple of components and altered the impedance switch to reflect whats possible with the Hammond OT. I simply extended the board a little to accomodate the bias supply. If you build on a pre made board you can always build the bias supply on a perf board and mount it wherever it'll fit. The "test point" for the bias can be any chassis mount isolated terminal. It's just a place to touch your meter pin to for a reading. I'm pretty sure this is complete, if there's a typo or other mistake someone here will find it I'm sure.

FWIW it occured to me that the implementation is a little clumbsy. The switching shouldn't be used with 6V6 tubes, only the 6L6's. What this means is that if you were, for example, to switch into diode rectifier with 6V6's in there could be a tube failure. Not because of the circuit but because the 6V6 tubes can't handle the extra voltage. So while the amp will be able to play as a basically stock 5E3 or a higher wattage 6L6 type 5E3 the two modes are somewhat exclusive and having switches on the chassis increases the possibility of a mistake. My solution would be to simply use 6L6's in the amp full time. It will still have about the same output as with 6V6's unless you use the switches. In the diode rectifier/fixed bias mode the amp will have about twice the power. You can of course plug in 6V6's in the cathode bias/tube rectifier mode for a further decrease in headroom when you really want to get crunchy.

Also, don't neglect the speaker efficiency issue. A lowish efficiency speaker in the combo will decrease volume a lot. Then with an extension cab and a high efficiency speaker you could switch to 6L6's and get really loud cleans or blow your face off crunch. With several volume options in between the two. Anyway... Here it is. Additions and changes are in purple.

Thanks for all your help! I really appreciate it.

[Bruce / Mission Amps]

There are lot of folks here who really know the 5E3.... however, Adam's Tungsten amps are not stock 5E3s.
As a matter of fact, he is the only pro 5E3 builder out there that actually has a "no strings attached" license from me to use any or all my subtle tweaks and mods, which I've come up with over the many years doing these amps.
OK, he is a personal friend of mine but we do not compete with each other.
Plus, I think his custom made, T12Q speaker is really the best Jensen "cloned" AlNiCo speaker Weber makes... probably the best speaker I've heard in a 5E3 save the Celestion, AlNiCo Bull Dog.
With that all said... there is nothing wrong with a dead stock 5E3 clone, using proper transformers, decent tubes and reissue P12Q. They have, and will continue to, turn heads all over the music world.

[cmattdabrat]

Thanks for the insight, Bruce. When I saw the board of the "Crema Wheat" it struck my curiosity as to the difference. It sounds really great on video and I can only imagine how great it sounds in person.

What I've decided to do is build a nearly stock (18- 20W) 5E3. That way I'll have a basis of comparison if I do need more headroom from my 5e3. I've purchased the necessary components taking some of Chuck H's advice, and I'm hand building the cabinet and chassis cause I like the sense of accomplishment from building as much as I possibly can.

Thanks for the help everyone.

[überfuzz]

I see that there are loads of posts in this thread. Hopefully I'm not repeating anything already posted.

I wouldn't bother myself to much with the brand of the caps, resistors etc, if I were you. They are slightly different in sound, but think about what you're going to plug in. Different caps wont make the same difference in sound as different guitars, not by a long shot. Even different gauged strings on the same guitar will make a bigger difference.

My advice is, don't go around chasing the cheapest stuff. You'll find good stuff just by taking one step up the ladder.

Only thing where I like to be somewhat picky is speakers. Oh, and you might wanna test different tubes further down the road. They can open up heavens if you get the right stuff.

[cmattdabrat]

Great advice. I appreciate it.