Basic Component Soldering 101

[Bassman2277]

Hey Guys,

I just received word that my 5E3 kit is on the way and, since it's been a while, I thought I'd ask a few questions about soldering.

I know that excessive heat will damage electronic components. Are there any general nuggets of wisdom that you all could impart to the unexperienced (namely ME) that will keep me from damaging my precious new kit components?

I have a Weller temp controlled soldering station on the way and I read a few different PDF's out there on solder iron care and upkeep (wiping before soldering, silvering the tip to prevent oxidation, etc).

Just looking for general common sense rules of thumb to make my first project a success.

I bow to all of the collected wisdom and experience on this forum and I'm man enough to ask for help.

Thanks!

Dave

[stokes]

Tube amps using point to point or the component boards (not PCB's) are not as susceptible to over heating from the soldering iron and can stand more heat than most PCB's.I am not saying you cant overheat some components,but most components in a tube amp can stand the heat of the iron.But to be safe it is always a good idea to use a heat sink between the component itself and the solder point.Always use an alligator clip for a heat sink and you will be safe.I use the Weller WLC-100 with a 1/8th inch screwdriver tip and set the control at 4,it goes from 1 to 5,so 4 is almost full out,and have never burnt a component,but always use the heat sink I described when soldering caps.With resistors of at least 1/2 watt I dont find a need to use a heat sink.

[bob p]

the alligator clip trick is a good one. you can even buy specially designed heatsink clips that are less than 1mm wide. they perform essentially the same purpose, and they're a little easier to fit into tight spaces like under transistors. for 5E3 type kit, alligators are all you need.

the only advice that i would offer about soldering is to be brief when you do it. be sure that your iron is adequately warmed, so you don't spend too much time heating the part iwth a lukewarm iron. heat it up until the solder flows freely, and then get off. stay on long enough to do it right the first time, rather than applying not enough heat and having to go back and perform the same operation over and over again.

hth

[Bassman2277]

Excellent!

Thanks Guys,

My kit arrived a few days ago and with your comments and advice I feel a lot more confident about getting started.

I'll post some pictures of the build as I progress...

[RickyD]

I just use an old pencil iron with a chisel tip, and it works just fine. I clean the tip before each session by filing off the old solder and oxidation on the flats of the tip (file down to bright copper, one or two strokes). Then I tin it with fresh solder and it's ready to go.

I use a heat sink only with electrolytics.

Good advice from Bob P above. Time is the enemy. If you can get on and off the joint in a few seconds, you have no worries. If the solder flows well and wets (as opposed to beading) you should have a good joint. Note that if anything moves in the joint before the solder has hardened, you will have a bad joint. After it has cooled, the joint should have a smooth shiny surface.

-Rick

[stokes]

Ricky you must go thru a lot of tips.Filing the tip is a bad idea,and any manufacturer discourages such action.Tips are iron plated and using abrasives will remove the iron plating and reduce the heat transfer property of the tip.Tip should be left tinned and only wiped on a damp sponge prior to soldering.

[Alex R]

- ok to file really old/basic non-plated copper tips though.

Slightly more expensive solder with a small Ag percentage is lovely to use and flows/wets better.

Don't bother with lead-free solder unless it's all you can get.

[RickyD]

Stokes, thanks for well-intended advice. I'm sure you're correct about those iron plated tips, but that's not the kind of unit I have. My tip is all copper, and wiping doesn't get it clean enough to tin properly. I only take off a few thousandths when I clean it.

I've had this iron for 45 years, and I am still using the original tip. I've built some stereo gear and a 5E3 with it, and of course the occasional mods to the guitars. At the rate I'm going it will last longer than I will.

With respect,
RickyD

[Alex R]

- probably the reason it doesn't tin is it gets too hot to do so. Temperature-controlled irons do make things a lot easier & more, er, controlled. My secondhand Hakko appears to be indestructible and was 18 quid.

[stokes]

Ricky,I stand corrected,havent seen one of those in too many years to even guess how long.

[RickyD]

I got it as part of a Cub Scout wood burning kit when I was about eight years old, so that was around 1959. Upgraded the element a few years later when I needed a soldering iron. I should probably replace it, the power cord insulation is brittle and starting to crack. It's just that whenever I'm ready to use it, I've already spent all the hobby money.

[Alex R]

A whole new world of 60-watt temperature-controlled constantly-tinned soldering joy awaits you. Seize the future!

...actally I have an old pure-copper-tipped 40-watt iron that I file now and then for old time's sake. It works surprisingly well, holds a lot of heat and thus allows quick work. It will melt solder on Fender chassis. I also have one of those Weller Magnastat items, which goes through tips suspiciously quickly (whilst the Hakko tips last forever).