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  • #16
    Hey Bruce, Thanks,I didn't know what I was thinking when I stated that the yellow/green wire goes to ground. I really rely on the advice I get here on this forum,I'm learning alot.Please excuse my ignorance. I may just go with the diode rectification instead of using the seperate 5v tranny though.

    Chuck.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by chuckb View Post
      Hey Bruce, Thanks,I didn't know what I was thinking when I stated that the yellow/green wire goes to ground. I really rely on the advice I get here on this forum,I'm learning alot.Please excuse my ignorance. I may just go with the diode rectification instead of using the seperate 5v tranny though.

      Chuck.
      Hey, don't fret it, I frequently don't know what I was thinking and spit out a comment I regret...
      I think you'll like the rectifier tube.... but do both.
      there are four more lugs on the tube socket that don't connect to anything. Only the even number lugs and pins are used in most of the commonly used octal socket rectifiers... the odd number lugs are doing nothing so use them as a terminal.
      Put your diodes on the odd #s, solder the SS anodes to lugs 4 and 6 and a spst switch in between the cathodes and lug 8 to open the common cathode joint to lug 8... that would be in order to bypass the diode rectification when you want tube rectification.
      Bias the power tubes slightly hot with solid state and a little cooler with hollow state.
      Bruce

      Mission Amps
      Denver, CO. 80022
      www.missionamps.com
      303-955-2412

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      • #18
        Hey Bruce, thanks for the info, I reall appreciate it.I do like the fact that I can set it up to make it switchable though. I know I'll have lots of questions before this build is finished and I thank everyone here for their help,I'd be loss without it.

        Chuck.

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