Two 5F6A builds well on the way, questions re: PT and Rectifier tube

[Jonny toetags]

I have my two 5F6A's coming together nicely and had a few questions.

I'm using the Classictone 120/240 PT since they didn't have stock for the standard model.
http://www.classictone.net/40-18029.pdf

I just want to double check my understanding the primary connection for 120V since I've read a few different wiring explanation.
-I connect the Black/White to the Brown/White. Connect that to the neutral (white wire) from the wall supply.
-Black to the Brown PT wires and then take that junction to the switch and then to the fuse

-ORANGE goes to ground

Secondary:
-RED/YEL is the center tap and goes to the negative of the filter cap
-RED/GRN goes to the bias circuit
With this PT, I have the option of using 710V secondary or 610V. Which should I use to get myself into proper voltage range.?
In the end, I should only have 2 wires to tape off..the unused 710 or 610.

Finally, I usually use NOS rectifiers in my smaller builds (5Y3). Seeing as getting my hands on a NOS GZ34 is a bit costly, how does this circuit perform with a modern production one?
Should I stick with a modern GZ34 or try something else?

[loudthud]

-The RED/BLK wire is the "hot" and connects to the switch

I don't see a RED/BLK wire.

The rest looks correct. Modern GZ34 are not very reliable. They can short plate to plate. Most people use a diode in series with each plate. The 610V taps will give a more vintage setup with B+ around 400VDC. The 710V taps will give a B+ around 500V.

[Jonny toetags]

Sorry...my bad. I was copying/pasting something else at the same time.
I will edit my post and remove the RED/BLK

So possibly putting a 1N400 diode across pin 3-4 and pin 5-6 would offer a bit more security?

[robrob]

Here's a layout for rectifier "backup" diodes that prevent a rectifier tube short from frying your amp with high voltage AC: