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What voltage rating for AB763 doghouse caps?

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  • What voltage rating for AB763 doghouse caps?

    I've got two blackface Super Reverb amps in my queue with original (bulging) caps. The 20uf caps are rated for 525V with a post-choke voltage of 460V per the schematic. Tubesandmore.com recommends 500V rated caps for this, but considering that 460V may be higher with modern mains voltages is that high enough? I made the mistake of letting the shop manager order caps and he got 600V Spragues that are too big to fit in the doghouse.

  • #2
    Another consideration is when the tubes are removed for troubleshooting, the voltage will rise even more. Node C may also be at risk. Here we are close to 125VAC line voltage, so I would want to measure at that with tubes removed.
    Originally posted by Enzo
    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


    Comment


    • #3
      With all tubes removed there's no load current and all filter caps should charge to the same voltage as the reservoir cap when measured in standby.
      - Own Opinions Only -

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      • #4
        As I'm not necessarily a "purist" when it comes to making old amps work reliably unless it's a "museum piece," I'd have no issue putting a couple of 47uF/4-500V caps in series in the doghouse - the reservoir cap is probably already like that & I'ddo it for the second cap too if needed. I know radial caps can be had for stupid cheap & they're much smaller, and even F&T axial caps are smaller than originals. Might require some creative construction techniques or heck I'd make a new turret board for myself because I'm weird like that...

        I hate Sprague Atoms because they're ridiculously over-sized & even more ridiculously over-priced.

        Jusrin
        "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
        "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
        "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Justin Thomas View Post
          As I'm not necessarily a "purist" when it comes to making old amps work reliably unless it's a "museum piece," I'd have no issue putting a couple of 47uF/4-500V caps in series in the doghouse - the reservoir cap is probably already like that & I'ddo it for the second cap too if needed. I know radial caps can be had for stupid cheap & they're much smaller, and even F&T axial caps are smaller than originals. Might require some creative construction techniques or heck I'd make a new turret board for myself because I'm weird like that...

          I hate Sprague Atoms because they're ridiculously over-sized & even more ridiculously over-priced.

          Jusrin
          They are large because they last for years and years.
          Small electrolytics tend to crash and burn because they cannot stand the ripple current required in older valve amplifiers.
          Support for Fender, Laney, Marshall, Mesa, VOX and many more. https://jonsnell.co.uk
          If you can't fix it, I probably can.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Justin Thomas View Post
            As I'm not necessarily a "purist" when it comes to making old amps work reliably unless it's a "museum piece," I'd have no issue putting a couple of 47uF/4-500V caps in series in the doghouse - the reservoir cap is probably already like that & I'ddo it for the second cap too if needed. I know radial caps can be had for stupid cheap & they're much smaller, and even F&T axial caps are smaller than originals. Might require some creative construction techniques or heck I'd make a new turret board for myself because I'm weird like that...

            I hate Sprague Atoms because they're ridiculously over-sized & even more ridiculously over-priced.

            Jusrin
            Owners on these amps definitely don't want any changes from original.

            OK, I know that people have to be recapping amps of this vintage. What caps are you using for the 20uFs?

            Comment


            • #7
              Normally I just use F&T 20uF@500. That's a working voltage. I'm not usually doing a bunch of testing without tubes for more than a short period of time. Had them in my 61 Concert for years, regularly used. Had about 505V on the plates & 500V on the screens. Never blew a cap or a tube or anything.

              I'm not saying it's "best practice" or anything but I've also never seen a bunch of folks here saying their caps were exploding (unless they were 450V or something & assuming they used at least decent ones).

              Jusrin
              "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
              "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
              "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

              Comment


              • #8
                Anything over 500V is going to be large, expensive, and hard to find. I'm with Justin. You could get a couple 47uf/350V radials and put them in series for less money and without sacrificing reliability. Also, you shouldn't have problems fitting them in the doghouse.
                Last edited by The Dude; 03-20-2025, 02:24 AM.
                "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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                • #9
                  It worked fine on a Musicman and Ampeg amps. But the B+ voltage on those amps were very high. Between the two caps you want, for lack of a better definition, balancing resistors to spread the voltage evenly across each cap. Are your tubes matching? Check! Caps balanced? Check!!
                  When the going gets weird... The weird turn pro!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jon Snell View Post

                    They are large because they last for years and years.
                    Small electrolytics tend to crash and burn because they cannot stand the ripple current required in older valve amplifiers.
                    I believe it has been shown that they are just sticking regular radial caps in a larger shell. There may be good reasons for their use as far as appearance and physical layout, but I don't think they have any better specs than what radials are capable of. And there is a very high cost premium for the axial casing.
                    Originally posted by Enzo
                    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


                    Comment

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