Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

tsl100-f3 blew-large 330uf cabs are discolored

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Glad you found it. C36,37 is surprising to me, they would have been down my list of suspects a ways.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

    Comment


    • #17
      thanks alot

      Well thank you for your help Enzo, it has been a while since I have been a tech so it is good to know that you and other guys and gals are around who can point me in the right direction, it takes a life time of being a tech to obtain the knowledge you have. Tube amp repair is something I am studying while I am fixing my own amps but there is alot to them and they are all different. It is sort of intimidating to jump into an amp like the tsl with the 4 billion wires all over the place. If I was the chief engineer I would not have let such an amp into production. Surely there are better methods of doing things. It really seems like it is an accident waiting to happen. I was just playing the amp in the dark, medium volume and when I strike a note the tubes all get a blue haze then settle down. I have never really done this so I am not sure if it is normal or not. They still spike up to 250-350 mv when I play a chord. I am getting a faint smell of burning electronics, I just installed some new tubes maybe they are just getting broke in, I hope so anyway. Anyway I guess I will play a little longer and see if this thing holds up then button it up. thanks again for all your help.

      P.S. I will be back if it don't hold up

      thanks again

      Comment


      • #18
        Tube amp repair ... they are all different.
        I maintain they are all the same. Only differences are details.


        And as to all the cables in that TSL, I just ignore them. Oh it would be hell if I had all of them removed and had to figure out where they went. But I never disconnect them. Maybe one or two. When I work on one of these and have to pull the main board, I start by dismounting the rear jack board. I pull off the wires from the OT and draw a little map where they go. I snip the two tie wraps holding those wires to the wall. Then after removing the tubes and having already taken the screws from the octal sockets up top, I then remove the screws that mount the main board to chassis. Now that whole mess can be flipped towards the front, allowing me access to the underside. I might have to pull a couple wires off the end from the power transformer first. I never completely remove the board - no reason to. Oh yeah, forgot, I had to unplug the little bias adjust board first too.
        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

        Comment


        • #19
          I have the same problem with only being able to bias one side
          I have repalced the tubes main board and trim pots and now looking at
          C36 and C37 and was wondering were you found them

          thanks in advance great group here

          Comment


          • #20
            the devil is in the details


            Originally posted by Enzo View Post
            I maintain they are all the same. Only differences are details.


            And as to all the cables in that TSL, I just ignore them. Oh it would be hell if I had all of them removed and had to figure out where they went. But I never disconnect them. Maybe one or two. When I work on one of these and have to pull the main board, I start by dismounting the rear jack board. I pull off the wires from the OT and draw a little map where they go. I snip the two tie wraps holding those wires to the wall. Then after removing the tubes and having already taken the screws from the octal sockets up top, I then remove the screws that mount the main board to chassis. Now that whole mess can be flipped towards the front, allowing me access to the underside. I might have to pull a couple wires off the end from the power transformer first. I never completely remove the board - no reason to. Oh yeah, forgot, I had to unplug the little bias adjust board first too.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by wyomingrocks View Post
              I know you don't normally monitor the bias while playing but I had my leads still hooked up and I started playing on the lead channel. I was running volume pretty high along with lots of gain and was putting the amp through the paces. I was measuring 200 to 400 mv while playing then it would settle back down when I would stop.
              That's normal, bias adjustement is crucial on Idle, when you play your amp works and you see that in the fluctuating bias...
              I can fix everything, where is the duct tape?

              Comment

              Working...
              X