Glad you found it. C36,37 is surprising to me, they would have been down my list of suspects a ways.
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tsl100-f3 blew-large 330uf cabs are discolored
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thanks alot
Well thank you for your help Enzo, it has been a while since I have been a tech so it is good to know that you and other guys and gals are around who can point me in the right direction, it takes a life time of being a tech to obtain the knowledge you have. Tube amp repair is something I am studying while I am fixing my own amps but there is alot to them and they are all different. It is sort of intimidating to jump into an amp like the tsl with the 4 billion wires all over the place. If I was the chief engineer I would not have let such an amp into production. Surely there are better methods of doing things. It really seems like it is an accident waiting to happen. I was just playing the amp in the dark, medium volume and when I strike a note the tubes all get a blue haze then settle down. I have never really done this so I am not sure if it is normal or not. They still spike up to 250-350 mv when I play a chord. I am getting a faint smell of burning electronics, I just installed some new tubes maybe they are just getting broke in, I hope so anyway. Anyway I guess I will play a little longer and see if this thing holds up then button it up. thanks again for all your help.
P.S. I will be back if it don't hold up
thanks again
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Tube amp repair ... they are all different.
And as to all the cables in that TSL, I just ignore them. Oh it would be hell if I had all of them removed and had to figure out where they went. But I never disconnect them. Maybe one or two. When I work on one of these and have to pull the main board, I start by dismounting the rear jack board. I pull off the wires from the OT and draw a little map where they go. I snip the two tie wraps holding those wires to the wall. Then after removing the tubes and having already taken the screws from the octal sockets up top, I then remove the screws that mount the main board to chassis. Now that whole mess can be flipped towards the front, allowing me access to the underside. I might have to pull a couple wires off the end from the power transformer first. I never completely remove the board - no reason to. Oh yeah, forgot, I had to unplug the little bias adjust board first too.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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the devil is in the details
Originally posted by Enzo View PostI maintain they are all the same. Only differences are details.
And as to all the cables in that TSL, I just ignore them. Oh it would be hell if I had all of them removed and had to figure out where they went. But I never disconnect them. Maybe one or two. When I work on one of these and have to pull the main board, I start by dismounting the rear jack board. I pull off the wires from the OT and draw a little map where they go. I snip the two tie wraps holding those wires to the wall. Then after removing the tubes and having already taken the screws from the octal sockets up top, I then remove the screws that mount the main board to chassis. Now that whole mess can be flipped towards the front, allowing me access to the underside. I might have to pull a couple wires off the end from the power transformer first. I never completely remove the board - no reason to. Oh yeah, forgot, I had to unplug the little bias adjust board first too.
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Originally posted by wyomingrocks View PostI know you don't normally monitor the bias while playing but I had my leads still hooked up and I started playing on the lead channel. I was running volume pretty high along with lots of gain and was putting the amp through the paces. I was measuring 200 to 400 mv while playing then it would settle back down when I would stop.I can fix everything, where is the duct tape?
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