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  • #31
    Were the pots in question used as part of the signal ground? In other words, were the ground lugs on the pots soldered to the back of the pot to make the signal ground connection (volume & mid control)? Was there a ground buss running to the back of any of the pots?

    If that was the case, the /resistor/diodes will not work. You would have to just connect everything to chassis ground (like you ended up doing). That combination of parts is intended to isolate Chassis ground from signal ground but it only works if signal ground is completely isolated from chassis ground at all points, like on some PC board amps. The cap, resistor & diodes provide a path for RF frequencies to still go to chassis ground (keep them out of your signal as much as possible). This is basically done to help prevent ground loops (and ground loop hum) when connecting to other equipment that uses a chassis only ground for signal & safety. Some times it is needed, sometimes it isn't. The cap / resistor / diode thing is what you will find most of the time attached to any "ground lift" switch you see on equipment (at least they should be there for the best RF performance).

    I have used this successfully on tube amps that I built on PC boards. You just have to run ground wires from the pots back to your signal ground, not to the pot itself. It is OK if the pot is connected to the chassis as long as the pot case is not used as a grounding point. There is no need to isolate the pots. However, you will need to isolate the input jack from the chassis (plastic jack, isolators around a metal jack, etc.) because a metal input jack connects the signal ground directly to the chassis.

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    • #32
      Were the pots in question used as part of the signal ground? In other words, were the ground lugs on the pots soldered to the back of the pot to make the signal ground connection (volume & mid control)? Was there a ground buss running to the back of any of the pots?

      If that was the case, the /resistor/diodes will not work. You would have to just connect everything to chassis ground (like you ended up doing). That combination of parts is intended to isolate Chassis ground from signal ground but it only works if signal ground is completely isolated from chassis ground at all points, like on some PC board amps. The cap, resistor & diodes provide a path for RF frequencies to still go to chassis ground (keep them out of your signal as much as possible). This is basically done to help prevent ground loops (and ground loop hum) when connecting to other equipment that uses a chassis only ground for signal & safety. Some times it is needed, sometimes it isn't. The cap / resistor / diode thing is what you will find most of the time attached to any "ground lift" switch you see on equipment (at least they should be there for the best RF performance).

      I have used this successfully on tube amps that I built on PC boards. You just have to run ground wires from the pots back to your signal ground, not to the pot itself. It is OK if the pot is connected to the chassis as long as the pot case is not used as a grounding point. There is no need to isolate the pots. However, you will need to isolate the input jack from the chassis (plastic jack, isolators around a metal jack, etc.) because a metal input jack connects the signal ground directly to the chassis.
      No they weren't and they never are. My jacks are always plastic thus insulated.
      My chassis is powder coated but I always manage to create contact points with the pots which are 16mm Alpha PCB pots connected with one bus wire soldered to their backs. When I ran the wire to the chassis GND it didn't change anything. Then connected it to the preamp signal GND and that cured the problem. Then I realized that this actually shortens the diodes combo which means that either the pots should be completely isolated from the chassis or not using this grounding method at all.

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      • #33
        I always manage to create contact points with the pots which are 16mm Alpha PCB pots connected with one bus wire soldered to their backs
        I'm confused. Were the "ground" lugs on the pots (volume & mid) soldered directly to the pot cases? If not, why would you run a buss wire along the back of the pots?

        The "ground" lugs on the pots should go directly to signal ground, not to the chassis. If the pot cases (without the buss wire) are attached to chassis ground it will make no difference.

        Sorry, I guess I'm not following what you are saying closely enough. This scheme does work, I'm just not clear on why it isn't working for you.

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        • #34
          I'm confused. Were the "ground" lugs on the pots (volume & mid) soldered directly to the pot cases? If not, why would you run a buss wire along the back of the pots?
          No they weren't. They go to signal (preamp PCB) ground.

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          • #35
            I'm about to replace the ac cord on my 75 Twin Reverb. The previous owner had one installed but whoever did it left the ground switch and the cap in the circuit which doesen't seem right. When I got it the ground prong was removed from the plug and the ground switch was still functional. I plan on using this method from the uncle spot web site. Any comments? http://www.unclespot.com/2to3prongconversion.html

            Thanks very much.

            Pete

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            • #36
              Always nice to add the fuse to the "hot" side of the mains input - Uncle Spot seems to have it right.

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