Ok, you should be reading negative DC voltage and you should be getting something like -5 volts to let's say -40 volts. Make sure your meter is set on DC voltage.
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Warning! Some Electronics devices contain lethal voltages that can kill you. If you do not feel qualified to work with dangerous voltages, refer your repairs to a qualified technician. By giving you online advice, I am assuming no liability for any injury or damages you might incur through your own actions.
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Originally posted by cudamax2343 View PostAfter 15mins my range on both sides increaces to 299mlv-312mlvWarning! Some Electronics devices contain lethal voltages that can kill you. If you do not feel qualified to work with dangerous voltages, refer your repairs to a qualified technician. By giving you online advice, I am assuming no liability for any injury or damages you might incur through your own actions.
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O.K a slight confusion on pins. First I think this explains them backwards
http://prewaramps.com/library/octal.jpg
Because if I START WITH THE RIGHT OF THE TIT AS #1, I'm good and my readings are -.o4 to -49.4
So what do I do now to finish-up?
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Leave the bias voltage at full negative -49.4, put your tubes back in and see if you blow a fuse. If not, you can bias the tubes. Do you have bias probes?Warning! Some Electronics devices contain lethal voltages that can kill you. If you do not feel qualified to work with dangerous voltages, refer your repairs to a qualified technician. By giving you online advice, I am assuming no liability for any injury or damages you might incur through your own actions.
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Originally posted by cudamax2343 View PostO.K a slight confusion on pins. First I think this explains them backwards
http://prewaramps.com/library/octal.jpg
Because if I START WITH THE RIGHT OF THE TIT AS #1, I'm good and my readings are -.o4 to -49.4
So what do I do now to finish-up?Warning! Some Electronics devices contain lethal voltages that can kill you. If you do not feel qualified to work with dangerous voltages, refer your repairs to a qualified technician. By giving you online advice, I am assuming no liability for any injury or damages you might incur through your own actions.
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Take the power tubes out and see if it blows a fuse.Warning! Some Electronics devices contain lethal voltages that can kill you. If you do not feel qualified to work with dangerous voltages, refer your repairs to a qualified technician. By giving you online advice, I am assuming no liability for any injury or damages you might incur through your own actions.
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Originally posted by cudamax2343 View PostIt does not.Warning! Some Electronics devices contain lethal voltages that can kill you. If you do not feel qualified to work with dangerous voltages, refer your repairs to a qualified technician. By giving you online advice, I am assuming no liability for any injury or damages you might incur through your own actions.
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Your amplifier has no place to "hook up" for biasing according to the schematic and you need bias probes to take a bias reading. One or both of your power tubes has a short or you would not be blowing the fuse with full negative bias voltage present on pin 5. The typical bias voltage for EL34's is -15 volts DC and with -49.4 volts DC present on the pin 5's of your tube sockets, the tubes would be running so cold you couldn't possibly blow a fuse. You need new power tubes and you need bias probes to set the new tubes idle current. You can't set tube idle current without them unless you have 1 ohm resistors present on the cathodes.Warning! Some Electronics devices contain lethal voltages that can kill you. If you do not feel qualified to work with dangerous voltages, refer your repairs to a qualified technician. By giving you online advice, I am assuming no liability for any injury or damages you might incur through your own actions.
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Ok, I just saw your previous thread on this amp regarding the wiggling around of the power tube to get it to work. Have you tried to tighten the pins in the power tube sockets with a pointy instrument with the power off of course? Also, you might have a cracked solder point on the power tube sockets at the pc board. you'd have to drain the amp, pull the board and use a magnifying glass to find the crack or cracks on the pin solder joints on the board. Can you solder? If one of the pin 5 solder joints is cracked you'd lose the negative bias voltage at the tube and it would redplate and blow a fuse. you're still gonna need a set of bias probes to bias the amp.Warning! Some Electronics devices contain lethal voltages that can kill you. If you do not feel qualified to work with dangerous voltages, refer your repairs to a qualified technician. By giving you online advice, I am assuming no liability for any injury or damages you might incur through your own actions.
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Warning! Some Electronics devices contain lethal voltages that can kill you. If you do not feel qualified to work with dangerous voltages, refer your repairs to a qualified technician. By giving you online advice, I am assuming no liability for any injury or damages you might incur through your own actions.
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