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This VHT that I'm working on has grey solder joints everywhere. I solder suck out the old stuff and resolder and they still look bad. Do I have to pull the parts and prep them with sandpaper to take the solder better? That's a huge job. Or is this caused by lead-free solder and they're supposed to look like that?
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Lead Free Solder sucks. Re-flow the joints with a bit of leaded solder, and they'll come up shiny and strong again
Building a better world (one tube amp at a time)
"I have never had to invoke a formula to fight oscillation in a guitar amp."- Enzo -
I hate lead free solder. So does everyone else. You know... There's probably over a ton of lead being left on the bottom of the worlds most important salmon rivers every day because of downrigger trolling. But appearently the tiny dabs of solder WE use in builds and repairs is going to poison the landfill!?! Let's face it, we humans have a real hard time getting together and prioritizing
I use plain 'ol rosin core solder from Radio Shack. It seems to have enough flux on it's own. If you suck out the joints and re-flow them with even a little flux they will be secure and bright. Temperature control helps too. Too high or too low (or too much time on the work) can mess it up. About 700* to 720* with 60/40. Use fresh melt to re-melt old solder. Don't take more time than needed and don't use more solder than you need. It's all good.
Chuck"Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." HelmholtzComment
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+1 on what tw and Chuck said.
Lead cannot be beaten in a couple of purposes.....solder joints and bullets,
( though in the second case the "poisoning" factor is not the main concern
)
Cheers
BobHoc unum scio: me nihil scire.Comment
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If you can get 63/37, so much the better. That's a eutectic solder that goes directly from liquid to solid when it cools without going through a "pasty" phase thereby greatly reducing the possibilities of a cold solder joint.Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
Eric.Comment
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I've tried that, but maybe my iron is too hot or something. I guess it's time to buy a real iron with temperature control.Originally posted by tubeswell View PostRe-flow the joints with a bit of leaded solder, and they'll come up shiny and strong againComment
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