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Heath ta-16

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  • #31
    Read Robliz thread. I am also a "multimeter, and read the schematics" kind of guy, myself. I already tried the "open it with a dremel" deal. It is "potted" on the inside with a material that prevents its re-usage. The bulb is burned out, at least, and is of a special proprietary value, not replaceable by conventional grain-of-wheat incandecents. We have replaced them with LED's for the light source, coupled with a custom value chosen, light dependent resistor. The thread, also has a "so called" diect replacement" for the OEM unit. Don't believe it. This modern unit also uses an LCD as a light source, instead of an incandescent), and the amp does not perform properly.

    I don't understand the circuit theory, but the tremolo circuit fluctuated/oscillated voltage to a tiny lamp on and off, which in turn, shined on a little light dependant resistor, causing the resistor's value to rise and fall. This rising and falling resistance is used to modulate/attenuate the volume, by alternately, grounding out, then insulating, the audio signal to ground.....like a volume control.

    The problem is, the led substituted in the circuit, allows a bit of "gain drain" by allowing too little resistance between the audio signal and ground. With the "LED/LDR combo", (an "opto isolator") repair method, the Reverb channel will sound weak, all the time, because the peculiarities of the circuit will cause the volume to be "padded down" all the time, because of this leakage/attenuation of the audio signal, to ground. This is true, even with the tremolo intensity control all the way down at 0, (tremolo off), or if using a foot pedal, to ground out the tremolo. The "NON vibrato" volume will always be low and weak, unless switched out of the circuit.

    You are better off not fixing it, or you can do what i am going to do.....replace the dead OEM unit with the Silonex part from Allied Electronics, (as referred to in the prior thread), and replace the OEM intensity pot, (25 K ?). with a similar value pot having an on/off switch. With the on off switch, you can figure out a way to eliminate the pesky attenuating trem circuit from the equation completely!

    I have experimented with every possible voltage/amperage grain of wheat bulb, teamed up with a carefully selected LDR, in an effort to replicate the "innards", of the little square black box that was OEM.

    No results were satisfactory. Many grain of wheat bulbs, would not even light or even fluctuate, with the available voltage of the circuit. The best choice is the silonex part used instead. It is not worth wrecking the volume of the reverb channel

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    • #32
      I don't understand the circuit theory, but the tremolo circuit fluctuated/oscillated voltage to a tiny lamp on and off, which in turn, shined on a little light dependant resistor, causing the resistor's value to rise and fall. This rising and falling resistance is used to modulate/attenuate the volume, by alternately, grounding out, then insulating, the audio signal to ground.....like a volume control.
      This is exactly the theory of this circuit.

      Boogyman: Try reading the voltage on the wiper of the depth control. As you turn it up from 0, you should find a fluctuating voltage there that varies in time with the speed control. If this voltage doesn't vary up and down, then the oscillator may not be running.

      Do you have a copy of the schematic and can you follow one if you do?

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      • #33
        Bill - Yes I have the schematic and I can read it to a certain extent... such as following a circuit path and recognizing some, but not all, symbols and values. I think I understand the test you describe enough to figure it out. Sounds like an analog meter would show the oscillations more clearly than the digital meter I normally use, correct? I'll give it a try, since I don't even know for sure the LDR is the faulty component. Thanks for giving me a clue where to start.

        Wizard - Ok then, looks like repairing the LDR (if that's the culprit) is out, and replacing it with the aforementioned alternative may not be ideal. So now that I have a diagnostic procedure to try, I hope it's not the LDR. It just bugs me that the tremolo isn't working. It's a shame how it's so difficult to find the correct parts to restore these old amps to their original condition.
        Of course I have some outboard effects I can use for the tremolo, but it's just not the same... you know what I mean!

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        • #34
          Yes...OCD wants us to have it 100% functional and original.
          Even though the LED based fix is not ideal, you can at least use an LED, (hooked up, as the old bulb was), to "see", if your circuit is oscillating the voltage up and down, (one half of the trem circuit), and does it respond to changes of the speed setting.... If you get an LED to flicker in response to trem control settings, (even without the LDR in place), at least you know the transistors, caps and resistors of the trem circuit, are all approximately doing their job, and in spec.

          While it could be a bad cap, resistor, or xstr in the trem circuit keeping yours from working, my guess, is that the OEM opto isolator asembly is the fault.

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          • #35
            While digging around for something, I came across my TA-16 chassis. Plugged it in and checked it out. Sounded good and the trem worked. First observation is that when the depth control is set to zero, the volume of the two channels is about the same.

            In circuit with the depth control at zero, there is about 3 volts across the bulb. I removed the optoisolator and ran a few tests. The light bulb filament reads 100 ohms. The photocell reads infinity (over 30 meg ohms). I applied voltage to the lamp and got the following readings.

            0v-----0mA-----infinity
            .5v----5mA-----25 meg
            1v-----6mA-----22 meg
            1.5v---7mA-----6.4 meg
            2v-----8mA-----1.2 meg
            2.5v---8mA-----209K
            3v-----8mA-----52K
            3.5v---10mA----17K
            4v-----10mA----7.4K
            4.5v---10mA----3.95K

            I didn't want to risk damage to the lamp, so I quit at 4.5 vdc.

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