Hi guys, been reading this site for a few months , love it!
Well I got a champ a few months ago ( those reissue ones ). It didn't sound right so I looked online and found John Frondelli's mods. One thing I always noticed was the amp is VERY hot ( you can barely touch the chassis metal after an hour ). Another thing is people online said it breaks up at mid volume ( past 9 or so), mine didn't break up even at 12(max volume).
A problem It had was it would do a ticking noice ( tick tick tick etc..) I figured it was the output tube, so I bought one with a 12ax7 when buying the parts from antique electronic supply.
So I did the mods and the amp sounded pretty good but it didn't break up at max volume still . The new tube was extremely hot like the original one, and the amp started making the ticking noise after a days.
Then I read online on speciatlyguitar.com that the champ should get a higher cathode bias resistor , so I put in a 600ohm 4watt vs the 468ohm 2watt stock. But the tube still ran extremely hot and the ticking was still present.
I decided to check the voltages from the test points on the schematic but I'm not an expert and the DC voltages look ok , but I don't know how to get the AC voltages from some points (tp9 tp2 tp5 tp13).
Here's the list of the test points (checked them a few times because my wall voltage varies alot):
tp16 114 to 126 vac = wall voltage
tp15 5.7 to 6.3 vac = heater voltage from transformer
tp14 278 to 294 vac = voltage from transformer
tp12 365 to 369 vdc = b+ voltage ( after the rectifier)
tp11 362 to 365 vdc = (b2?)
tp10 342 to 344 vdc = (b3?)
tp8 21 to 24 vdc = cathode on 6v6
tp7 & tp6 = 1.7vdc cathodes on 12ax7
My questions are , why do the tubes run so hot ( even the preamp tube runs pretty hot ). Do those voltages ( the ones I got right ) look good ? What is causing the ticking , are the tubes prematurely failing? Heat? Should I check any other points on the board.
Thanks and sorry for the long post!
Edit: Forgot to post the schematic!
Well I got a champ a few months ago ( those reissue ones ). It didn't sound right so I looked online and found John Frondelli's mods. One thing I always noticed was the amp is VERY hot ( you can barely touch the chassis metal after an hour ). Another thing is people online said it breaks up at mid volume ( past 9 or so), mine didn't break up even at 12(max volume).
A problem It had was it would do a ticking noice ( tick tick tick etc..) I figured it was the output tube, so I bought one with a 12ax7 when buying the parts from antique electronic supply.
So I did the mods and the amp sounded pretty good but it didn't break up at max volume still . The new tube was extremely hot like the original one, and the amp started making the ticking noise after a days.
Then I read online on speciatlyguitar.com that the champ should get a higher cathode bias resistor , so I put in a 600ohm 4watt vs the 468ohm 2watt stock. But the tube still ran extremely hot and the ticking was still present.
I decided to check the voltages from the test points on the schematic but I'm not an expert and the DC voltages look ok , but I don't know how to get the AC voltages from some points (tp9 tp2 tp5 tp13).
Here's the list of the test points (checked them a few times because my wall voltage varies alot):
tp16 114 to 126 vac = wall voltage
tp15 5.7 to 6.3 vac = heater voltage from transformer
tp14 278 to 294 vac = voltage from transformer
tp12 365 to 369 vdc = b+ voltage ( after the rectifier)
tp11 362 to 365 vdc = (b2?)
tp10 342 to 344 vdc = (b3?)
tp8 21 to 24 vdc = cathode on 6v6
tp7 & tp6 = 1.7vdc cathodes on 12ax7
My questions are , why do the tubes run so hot ( even the preamp tube runs pretty hot ). Do those voltages ( the ones I got right ) look good ? What is causing the ticking , are the tubes prematurely failing? Heat? Should I check any other points on the board.
Thanks and sorry for the long post!
Edit: Forgot to post the schematic!
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