Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

problems with 5150 combo

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • #1

    problems with 5150 combo

    thanks for taking the time to look over my situation,
    well my problem started early this week and what happen was one day i turned my 5150 on and plugged in my guitar and let the tubes warm up then when i was about to start rockin "pop" it just went out and saw some smoke come out by the power switches i thought it was my tubes so i replaced them then once i turned the power switch on it light up then the stand by switch it didnt light up, i got nothing no sound so im wondering about that day what could cause that smoke to appear? thanks
    Tags: None
  • #2
    It's always bad to let the smoke out of your amp. I've found that once the smoke gets out they don't work.

    But really... There are a few things I can think of that may cause your problem. The most likely is a bad filter capacitor in the power supply. You really should take it to the shop unless your experienced with amplifier repair. You shouldn't turn it on again before it is fixed.

    Chuck
    "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

    "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

    "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
    You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

    Comment

    • #3
      i hope that isn't the case with my amp,i'd hate to throw in the towel... i'll take it in first thing tomorrow..
      really appreciate the advice thanks

      Comment

      • #4
        As long as it's not a transformer it shouldn't be an expensive repair. Filter caps make alot of smoke when they go but it's usually an easy repair. Good luck.

        Chuck
        "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

        "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

        "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
        You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

        Comment

        • #5
          Your green standby status light remaining dark means the B+ is gone - the high voltage. Here is what I see. You had a power tube fail, it took out the high voltage fuse inside the amp. It may also have burnt up a screen resistor near the tube socket.

          In any case, even though it needed new power tubes, installing them won;t cure the blown fuse. SO you or someone must go inside the chassis and change the high voltage fuse. Then with your new power tubes and a fresh fuse, we can THEN fire it up and see if any resistors were damaged.
          Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

          Comment

          • #6
            OOOh... I almost went with "screen resistor" and "internal fuses" too... Damn.

            I don't have the benefit of Enzo's repair experience. Especially on Peavey's it seems (Hmmm) So I'd go with Enzo on this.

            Chuck
            "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

            "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

            "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
            You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

            Comment

            • #7
              On various PV amps, the red power light just works off the power. But the green status LED is controlled by a transistor. The transistor is in turn enabled by the presence of B+ at the screen node. When the HV fuse opens, nothing turns on the green LED.

              SO I'll bet my lunch money the HV fuse is open, and I don;t think I'll go hungry.

              Failing power tubes take out screen resistors often enough, so that is no off the wall prediction. Se we ned to make sure that didn't happen. On most PV tube amps there is a 10 watt 400 (390) ohm resistor between plate and screen B+ nodes. The standby switch is in series with it. In severe tube failures, this "screen" resistor could also open.
              Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

              Comment

              Previous template Next
              Working...
              X