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Fender G DEC Jr Transformer

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  • Fender G DEC Jr Transformer

    I have a G DEC Jr in the shop with a shorted transformer. It's markings are:
    P/B
    G-DEC JR
    J1-120
    PA 101379 Can anybody tell me where I can get one of these and/or a schematic. What is the difference between a Jr and a plain G DEC?

  • #2
    These amps are swap-only from Fender. Replacement parts are unavailable.
    John R. Frondelli
    dBm Pro Audio Services, New York, NY

    "Mediocre is the new 'Good' "

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    • #3
      Thats just wonderful .

      THANKS FENDER

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      • #4
        Here is the schematics and stuff. Looks like a 30VCT for the power amp with an extra 8VAC or so to feed the 5V regulator and some other things
        Attached Files
        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by redneckgeek View Post
          What is the difference between a Jr and a plain G DEC?
          From Fender's website:
          The G-DEC Junior is a simplified, super-cute version of our award-winning original G-DEC. This 15-watt baby has an 8” speaker and simple interface with knobs for selecting various amp types, effects types, backing tracks and performance loops in styles such as rock, blues, metal, jazz, country, Latin, hip-hop and others.
          ST in Phoenix

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          • #6
            thanks enzo !!!!!!!!!!

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            • #7
              I know this thread is old but... I had a similar problem with a GDEC today. It wasnt the trans. On the pcb , right next to the 2 brown wires , is a small , green FUSE. Looks like a little green resistor , but its a 1/2 amp fuse. I replaced it and my amp works ! Hope this helps

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              • #8
                Did you check the current there? You can disconnect one of those spade lugs to check the current. The .5A is under spec'd. Many of these amps got junked (do not repair list) because that fuse blew. The one I have runs right at about .5A with 124V AC line voltage. So I put a .75A pico fuse in there. If you notice on the schematic it actually shows F2 as 1A on the drawing and also on the component layout.
                Originally posted by Enzo
                I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                • #9
                  Originally posted by g1 View Post
                  Did you check the current there? You can disconnect one of those spade lugs to check the current. The .5A is under spec'd. Many of these amps got junked (do not repair list) because that fuse blew. The one I have runs right at about .5A with 124V AC line voltage. So I put a .75A pico fuse in there. If you notice on the schematic it actually shows F2 as 1A on the drawing and also on the component layout.
                  I have to replace it also. Is that fuse suppose to be fast or slow acting? There is a "T" designation on the board, and the fuse itself has an "F" marking.
                  Thank you
                  Last edited by misterc57; 01-30-2017, 12:44 PM.

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                  • #10
                    I took that 'T' on the board to indicate time-delay, or slow-blow. At the voltage here, the running current was too close for 1/2A so I went to 750mA. This is what I used:
                    http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/L...HAQ9p0xgQb0%3d
                    With a fast blow I would go 1A as the schematic shows.
                    Originally posted by Enzo
                    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                    • #11
                      Sorry to resurect this old thread, but I have just aquired a dead G-Dec 15. Upon oipening it, I can see someone had aleady removed the glass tube fuse, I can't see any other issues visually.
                      I used a multimeter and can see 240v coming out of the trasnsformer (im in the UK).
                      I know I shouldn't do either of these, but just as a quick test, I made a temp connection accross where the glass fuse should be, still nothing. I then cam upon this thread, and also soldered a temp connection across the Pico fuse (T2), but still nothing when pluged in and turned on. My querstion is, making a connection across where these two fuses should be, if one or both of them were the issues, should this bring it to life? Or is there something else a pico fuse is doing? Or is there something else I could try please?
                      Great little amp, shame to throw it away.

                      Kind regards.

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                      • #12
                        Hi, may I suggest you start a new thread for your repair. It gets confusing discussing more than one repair in a thread.

                        Fuses blow for a reason, and simply replacing the fuse doesn't usually correct that reason.
                        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                        • #13
                          Hi Enzo, I posted in this thread, as the reason these fuses blow are because the rating was too low, as previously discussed.

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