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Parts Salvage Question
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Originally posted by Enzo View PostProbably from wax cooked off all those wax capacitors in there. They all need to go away.
I kind of hate robbing such a gorgeous piece of Americana, but I'm gassing for a second tube amp for guitar. If I could trade it for a point to point amp, I would, or sell it to fund one.
Here are the eye candy shots. The legs are not on it in the pic, but I have them. It's on a dolly.
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Originally posted by HJW View PostYes, they are done for sure. Would the wax be an issue on the pots and other components ? I tried alcohol on the wiring harness and it didn't help much.
I kind of hate robbing such a gorgeous piece of Americana, but I'm gassing for a second tube amp for guitar. If I could trade it for a point to point amp, I would, or sell it to fund one.
with the tubes and PT/OT from this unit for ~$50 of new parts; you'll love it!
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Originally posted by tedmich View PostWell to make an omelet you have to break some eggs. Its an old (sticky) egg currently, I'd build an 18watt clone.....
......with the tubes and PT/OT from this unit for ~$50 of new parts; you'll love it!
- Are you are saying 50 bucks worth of parts + the cost of the Hammond transformers and the 4 tubes ?
- Is that a class A design ?
What I really want is point to point lower watt amp, which that design is, and one that isn't forgiving. One that is very responsive and will reveal any nuances gone wrong. Like when I butcher a Mark Knopfler lick lol.
If that minimalist design will work for what I'm shooting for, I'll try it.
btw, I lucked into another one. It's a VC 22 single chassis. Same year,'59. I haven't pulled the chassis out yet.
Would the design you offered above work with that chassis, and possibly add those bass and treble pots into the mix ? Perhaps replace the balance pot with a mids ? Sure would be cool to preserve the pull on, push off/volume control, along with the face and other control knobs.
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Originally posted by HJW View PostThanks Ted. That's what I want, a simple amp. Just a couple of questions I have:
- Are you are saying 50 bucks worth of parts + the cost of the Hammond transformers and the 4 tubes ?
- Is that a class A design ?
What I really want is point to point lower watt amp, which that design is, and one that isn't forgiving. One that is very responsive and will reveal any nuances gone wrong. Like when I butcher a Mark Knopfler lick lol.
If that minimalist design will work for what I'm shooting for, I'll try it.
btw, I lucked into another one. It's a VC 22 single chassis. Same year,'59. I haven't pulled the chassis out yet.
Would the design you offered above work with that chassis, and possibly add those bass and treble pots into the mix ? Perhaps replace the balance pot with a mids ? Sure would be cool to preserve the pull on, push off/volume control, along with the face and other control knobs.
http://mhuss.com/18watt/schematics/18wattLite2b.gif
The $50 was for the resistors/caps and you have the tubes/sockets/PT/OT right? Build it up if the voltages are ok on the PT, and if its as godlike as they say THEN drop the bucks on a primo PT/OT.
To paraphrase Gen. George Patton, an amp made now is better than a perfect amp planned to be made sometime in the future.
(Once made it can be perfected!)
oh and on the class A stuff, its complicated (search here) most good guitar amps are not ever run as class A. Audiophiles love class A, SE, ultralinear, no NFB etc (not necessarily all at once!) but guitar people use what works.
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What am I missing here? You're talking about buying transformers, but you have about a half dozen right there. I don't see why you shouldn't be able to make an 18 watt clone (or two) with a PT and OT from those old consoles.
They may not be exactly the same as the recommended Hammond parts, but I'll bet the Hammond parts aren't the same as what Marshall used in the original 18 watter. That's the beauty of tube amps, things just need to be in the ball park, they don't need to be exact.
The VC22 chassis should work fine if you get some 12AX7s for the 6CG7 slots. You could reuse the existing controls, if they're of suitable values and tapers, and aren't too scratchy. I wouldn't try reusing any resistors or capacitors.
Tedmich: I like the "General Patton" quote"Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"
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Originally posted by tedmich View Postthe minimalist is just that: the simplest Marshall 18watt, but others are more loved (=more made?) like the Lite IIB.
http://mhuss.com/18watt/schematics/18wattLite2b.gif
The $50 was for the resistors/caps and you have the tubes/sockets/PT/OT right? Build it up if the voltages are ok on the PT, and if its as godlike as they say THEN drop the bucks on a primo PT/OT.
To paraphrase Gen. George Patton, an amp made now is better than a perfect amp planned to be made sometime in the future.
(Once made it can be perfected!)
oh and on the class A stuff, its complicated (search here) most good guitar amps are not ever run as class A. Audiophiles love class A, SE, ultralinear, no NFB etc (not necessarily all at once!) but guitar people use what works.
Thanks for the second version schematic. Perhaps I can do both since I have 2 chassis. I'll read up on the class a thing
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Originally posted by Steve Conner View PostWhat am I missing here? You're talking about buying transformers, but you have about a half dozen right there. I don't see why you shouldn't be able to make an 18 watt clone (or two) with a PT and OT from those old consoles.
They may not be exactly the same as the recommended Hammond parts, but I'll bet the Hammond parts aren't the same as what Marshall used in the original 18 watter. That's the beauty of tube amps, things just need to be in the ball park, they don't need to be exact.
The VC22 chassis should work fine if you get some 12AX7s for the 6CG7 slots. You could reuse the existing controls, if they're of suitable values and tapers, and aren't too scratchy. I wouldn't try reusing any resistors or capacitors.
Tedmich: I like the "General Patton" quote
I'd love to use the VC 22 chassis instead. Hopefully the controls will work.
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