Crate GFX 120 - Constant hum

[Jazz P Bass]

Just resolder the joint.

[nashvillebill]

I agree. Make sure your iron is warmed up first, give the iron ten minutes or so, so it's good and hot. (A cold iron won't heat up the joint very good, and will actually wind up transferring too much heat to the component if you have to let it sit there on the joint forever.)

Then put the tip on the connection, let the solder melt thoroughly, when everything is heated up properly you can see the solder wick up onto the trace and the component leg. If the solder just sits there as a ball, the trace and/or component leg hasn't gotten hot. The iron must touch the trace and component leg so both get hot enough...solder isn't glue. Then withdraw the iron, careful not to move anything.

Do not blow on the solder to cool it off, and --very important--do not let the component wiggle or move AT ALL until the solder has completely cooled to the solid state again (which will be ten or fifteen seconds, not long, just don't get impatient).

[Roshihyde]

Ok do you have any DEsoldering tips? I've watched videos and it looks easy if you have a pump.

[Roshihyde]

Ok do you have any DEsoldering tips? I've watched videos and it looks easy if you have a pump.

[DrGonz78]

When heating up the original solder it helps to add some fresh melted solder right away. Trying to heat up the old solder can be a real pain in the A$$. Once you melt some fresh solder then it will all start to melt and will be easier to remove. Solder pump is quick and effective. Solder wick is great for tidying up after you remove solder with the pump.

[Enzo]

If you are resoldering a main filter cap, don;t even worry about removing the old solder. Just add a little new solder to the existing. That will be good enough for this purpose.