How to not destroy pots when removing knobs???

[Prairie Dawg]

Check out the Stew Mac knob puller

Knob and Bushing Puller at Stewart-MacDonald

You could probably cobble something similar together with a long bolt and nuts, and a plastic tube of some sort

Yep, that's what I'm fixin to do.

[Krwkka]

Check out the Stew Mac knob puller

You know, I saw that tool. I wonder if that would help for my particular problem. What's happening to me is that when I pull the knobs off the springy metal that keeps the wiper contact in touch with the resistive element is being compressed, resulting in intermittent contact.

I would think that with the StewMac tool--if there was even enough space to fit the tool between the chassis and the skirt of the knob--I would still be applying damaging pressure on the pot. Maybe the possibility of damage would be lessened with this tool because the pressure is kept straight and even??

A rather complicated solution might be something similar to the StewMac tool, except that instead of the tool applying pressure against the chassis, one would drill a hole in the center of the knob and there would be a pin on the extractor to apply pressure against the pot shaft. This would not cause the spring to compress. It would be sort of like the tool used to remove the pins from a bicycle chain, if you've ever seen one of those.

This is getting way too complicated!

[J M Fahey]

Hi. The StewMac tool idea is great.
I'm making one at once.
The real problem here is the abysmal quality of pots currently available.
In them, parts are fixed by crimping, which is being done worse everyday, maybe by setting the pot-making machine to 10000 an hour instead of "only" 5000 an hour.
I've had the knob pull the shaft clean from the pot body !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Maybe that's why new generic knobs (which I buy by the 1000) now grip less the shafts.
But an older, stronger knob, such as the classic Marshall one coupled to a new pot, may mean trouble.
When one of the new knobs fits loose, I *never* put a drop of anything, only open up slightly the slotted shaft.
And if not slotted, just use a small piece of paper.

[Steve A.]

I never have a problem with those. The ones I wind up destroying are older fender pc mount pots. The metal shaft would pull right out of the wiper assembly.

Of course when some idiot drips superglue into the knobs so they don;t fall off, then you are screwed. If they are just stuck, my inclination would be some gentle heating, but the stuff is all plastic, so you can;t get very aggressive.

For the super-idiot using super-glue you might try trashing the knob to save the pot@@. I think a Dremel would handle most of the plastic knobs just fine. Of course it would be real embarrassing if once you started cutting the knob, it fell off with no sign of Krazy Glue (it was just on tight ).

I have a hunch that many guitarists would rather live with an amp with an unrepaired problem than one that was missing a knob or- heaven forbid!- had the wrong knob on it. Since anybody could see that just looking at the amp.

Steve Ahola

P.S. As for knobs *not* superglued, I think that an even force straight up is less likely to damage the knob than if you are trying to pry it off.

@@ Many thanks to R.G. Keen for the idea behind this suggestion. In his articles on amp repair he pointed out that it was really stupid to try to save a 5 cent part and in the process destroy a costly printed circuit board that might be no longer available. "Trash the cheap part and save the board!"

[Krwkka]

I have a hunch that many guitarists would rather live with an amp with an unrepaired problem than one that was missing a knob or- heaven forbid!- had the wrong knob on it. Since anybody could see that just looking at the amp.

No doubt you are correct, Steve. MOST ESPECIALLY if the logo says Marshall!

_

[J M Fahey]

Originally Posted by Steve A. View Post
I have a hunch that many guitarists would rather live with an amp with an unrepaired problem than one that was missing a knob or- heaven forbid!- had the wrong knob on it. Since anybody could see that just looking at the amp.

I thought I was the only one getting such clients !!!!!!!!!!
An "Argentine special": *all* US amplifiers (Peavey, Fender, whatever) used to come with a 2 round pin 220V power plug (so far so good), but the SCHUKO type , with the same spacing as classic European 2 round pin ones, our own "official" power plug for ages, BUT 5.5mm diameter pins instead of 4mm ones.
Unfortunately, they can be forced into a regular wall outlet ...... destroying it forever for regular plugs.
The worst part?: one of those amps comes in for servicing, I routinely change the plug for the regular, official one, (complying with electrical norms) and the owner gets MAD at me, I've just DESTROYED his amp, sound, life, future, sex life, whatever.
When I tell them the original one was wrong, they retort wisely: "if that part were wrong, "Peavey/Fender/Acoustic/whatever would not have used it, would they?"
Impeccable logic I must add.

[EDWARDEFFECT1]

How to remove knobs on amp

Ive been using the blue plastic automotive tools that are for door panels i believe. They are blue and are made out of nylon.about $4.99 at harbor frieght.the have different shapes and a u shaped or v opening in them.i had knobs that were on so tight i couldn't get them off with my hands and they came right off easily without breakage on a bogner line 6 amp.i have used these tools on numerous amps with 100 % sucess(no breakage).as a matter of fact the reason i took the knobs off the bogner line 6 is it had a broken potentiometer with a missing knob that someone else had broken...hope this helps the repaimen and tinkers out there.....latter...ed!!!

[J M Fahey]

Hi.Please post links or pictures, sounds interesting.
Thanks.

[Krwkka]

...100 % sucess(no breakage). as a matter of fact the reason i took the knobs off the bogner line 6

Line6 stuff is another one with problematic knobs! Is one of these the tool you're talkin' 'bout?

Harbor Freight Tool Set

[EDWARDEFFECT1]

Great tools for removing guitar amp knobs!!!

HERE IS THE HARBOR FREIGHT TOOL KIT I TALKED ABOUT FOR REMOVING KNOBS.IF THEY WILL REMOVE LINE 6 KNOBS THEY WILL REMOVE ANYTHING.I HAVE NEVER SEEN AN AMP KNOB AS HARD TO MEMOVE AS A LINE 6 AMP.I COULDN'T GET THEM OFF WITH MY HANDS IF MY LIFE DEPENDED ON IT. THERE ARE 2 TOOLS IN THIS KIT THAT WILL WORK GREAT. THE LARGER TOOL WITH 2 SLOTS AND THE TOOL WITH THE HOLE IN IT.THE PRICE SHOWS $7.99 ,BUT THEY GO ON SALE ALL THE TIME FOR $4.99.HERE IS THE SITE! HOPE THESE HELP YOU AS MUCH AS THEY HAVE HELPED ME.THEY ARE NICE BECAUSE OF THEM BEING NYLON THEY DON'T SEEM TO SCRATCH THE AMP FRONT FACE PANEL.YOU CAN USE 2 TOOLS DIRRECTLY ACROSS FROM EACH OTHER IF YOU WANT A MORE EVEN PRESSURE.I DIDN'T HAVE ANY PROBLEM WORKING JUST FROM ONE SIDE,BUT JUST A THOUGHT....ENJOY....ED!!!- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

[fred46]

another old trick,WD40 works great for a worn wiper.
love this site,happy to be aboard.

[Dave Curtis, dB AudioTech]

another old trick,WD40 works great for a worn wiper.
love this site,happy to be aboard.

WD40 is NOT an electronics cleaner. It will destroy the carbon track inside the pot. Use Deoxit; that's what it's for.

[Prairie Dawg]

WD40 is NOT an electronics cleaner. It will destroy the carbon track inside the pot. Use Deoxit; that's what it's for.

True. Of course if you get lucky you'll find a can of Channel Master tuner cleaner, a/k/a R-12 stuck in a cabinet somewhere in a dead radio repair shop.

[fred46]

wd40

WD40 is NOT an electronics cleaner. It will destroy the carbon track inside the pot. Use Deoxit; that's what it's for.

i agree with you;but,i was using this as a prelim too finding how bad the pot really is,under power test.Hold your ear's type of thing.they are already bad pot's to be replaced.

[Dave Curtis, dB AudioTech]

i agree with you;but,i was using this as a prelim too finding how bad the pot really is,under power test.Hold your ear's type of thing.they are already bad pot's to be replaced.

That's not what you said:

"WD40 works great for a worn wiper"

And you do know the stuff is quite flammable, right (under power test)? If Deoxit doesn't fix a scratchy pot, replace it. If WD40 does fix a scratchy pot, you should have used Deoxit, because you need to replace it now. BTW, if the wiper has worn the carbon off the track, you can sometimes move the wiper(s) to a different spot on the track. But you just trashed it with WD40...

"Put the WD40 down and step away from the amplifier!"