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Electrolytic cans voltage ratings...

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  • Electrolytic cans voltage ratings...

    Does ANYONE make "typical" (i.e. JJ, F&T etc.) size cap cans in 32/32 and maybe 50/50 that are rated at more than 500V? Even 550 would ease my mind a bit. I have a few different amps that are really cranking out some voltage and when the power company decides to really cook things at 124/125 AC, some of those initial stage voltages are creeping up to 500-515 and it makes me nervous. And that's WITH a tube rectifier (one of them anyway). Usually I plug a little space heater into the same outlet (don't laugh) and sag the wall voltage down a little bit, but since the electric co.'s here in PA were deregulated this year, that's costing me!

  • #2
    Originally posted by EFK View Post
    Does ANYONE make "typical" (i.e. JJ, F&T etc.) size cap cans in 32/32 and maybe 50/50 that are rated at more than 500V? Even 550 would ease my mind a bit. I have a few different amps that are really cranking out some voltage and when the power company decides to really cook things at 124/125 AC, some of those initial stage voltages are creeping up to 500-515 and it makes me nervous. And that's WITH a tube rectifier (one of them anyway). Usually I plug a little space heater into the same outlet (don't laugh) and sag the wall voltage down a little bit, but since the electric co.'s here in PA were deregulated this year, that's costing me!
    You could always wire two in parallel/series with bleeder resistors across each one. Doing that ensures that each cap only sees 1/2 the total B+
    Jon Wilder
    Wilder Amplification

    Originally posted by m-fine
    I don't know about you, but I find it a LOT easier to change a capacitor than to actually learn how to play well
    Originally posted by JoeM
    I doubt if any of my favorite players even own a soldering iron.

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    • #3
      Instead of replacing the caps or usng a space heater, why not make a Vintage Voltage adapter? Vintage Voltage for Old Equipment

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      • #4
        Be aware that the voltages on those filter caps are "working voltage" ratings. it is OK to run a 500v cap at 500v. Caps have a surge rating to cover overvoltage.
        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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        • #5
          Once upon a time you could count on components to be good for at least 20% over the rating. Nowadays, I don't know if I would trust the Chinese reproductions for that anymore. But, I would also absolutely trust Enzo's recomendations.

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          • #6
            Does ANYONE make "typical" (i.e. JJ, F&T etc.) size cap cans in 32/32 and maybe 50/50 that are rated at more than 500V?
            F&T has numerous cans rated at 550V working/600V surge but AFAICT they are only sold on an OEM basis and rebranded.

            Here's an example from a German distrib:
            http://www.die-wuestens.de/kd/KON96050.pdf

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            • #7
              Series stack is usually the best way. Parts should last longer too not be'n run right on the edge.
              The farmer takes a wife, the barber takes a pole....

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              • #8
                I've used two caps in series for the first filter off the rectifier for the voltage safety margin. Weber also sells some 600V e-caps, and reasonably priced.

                https://taweber.powweb.com/store/capord.htm


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