Need help fixing simple SWR Triad speaker wiring

[dec89]

Hello!

A few days ago my bands bass player was playing through my ampeg b2r and swr triad cabinet (bought used years ago) at a reasonable volume. We noticed that the volume started dropping until it cut out all together (all in about 4 sec or so). Through testing we figured out that it was a cabinet problem so I opened her up in the back and it seems like the panel holding the electronics had slipped out of it's position causing 2 wires (red and white) to become loose. The thing is - I see 3 metal pieces which they could be attached to. I have contacted a few people about this and have received no help so I'm turning to the forum before taking it in. It seems like an easy fix but I am so clueless when it comes to electronics. I am uploading a picture of the problem along with the schematic that Fender sent me. Any help is much appreciated.

- Daniel

[captntasty]

What does the other side of the other side of the board look like?

[dec89]

thanks for the reply - here is the other side of the board

[captntasty]

What does the white wire go to?

[g1]

I see a fourth tab at the top of the fuse or is it broken off?
The red wire that is still connected looks wrong, the 2 black wires wrapped together looks wrong, the 2 connections with the blue tape looks wrong (why are they both red wires?). Looks like the cab was rewired and should be redone properly. You need to find out where all the wires are going to.

[captntasty]

Looks like the cab was rewired and should be redone properly.

I have to concur... somethings been "fixed" in there so let's try to fix the fix...

Can you draw out where all wires are going to and coming from in relation to the schematic and then scan and post?

[dec89]

Wow thanks for all of the replys!

I'm attaching some pictures with more angles. I can't draw it out as the amp is at my fathers house but the last time i was there i opened it up and saw that the white wire was going to the amps tweeter. I'm not too sure about the others - some do go to the 10" speaker and 15" speaker but I don't remember at this time. I do know that this amp is designed to send different frequencies to a specific speaker/tweeter. Where should these wires be going?

[captntasty]

I'm a little confused... if it's a triad there should only be a 15" and 10" drivers/woofers - no tweeter. Is the tweeter in a separate cab? was one installed in this cab? Anyhow, there should be 3 leads coming from the L-pad - the silver thing that says VT-50H... according to the schematic a blue lead that supplies the L-pad (I don't see any blue in the pics) then a black that goes off to ground (a bare wire should not be just wrapped around that connector!), a red that goes to the fuse/bulb (is that thing cooked or is the filament intact?) and the other side of that feeds the first yellow capacitor where there is a red lead on the quik-connect now... I can't see it, but is there another quik-connect lug at the end of the fuse mount? That end should connect to the first capacitor somehow.. perhaps some jumper from the end of the fuse to the quik-connect lug that the red lead is on in the pic???
Ya know what? - it's nearly impossible to figure this out without my hands upon it and it seems to have been "modified" somehow... I really think you should get this to a repairman and have it correctly wired... that's why nobody has touched your inquiries... it needs to be fixed by someone who knows what they're doing. This cab has some "issues".

[Enzo]

Try this schematic. It sems to match your board reasonably well.

The "fuse" that doesn't seem to connect to anything does seem to have push-ons at each end. That would be the bulb. The wiper of the L-pad goes to one end and the other end is wired up to the tweeter. That one red wire on the push-on near the fuse would connect to the hot leg of the L-pad.

I am guessing the input from the amp goes to the two screw terminals? The negative would be the one nearest the little inductor..

The little push-ons either side of the screws would then feed the woofer.

According to the schematic, the 10" mid is run through a cap to roll some of the bottom out of it. One could wire the cap from the woofer + to the 10" + terminal, and common up the grounds.

Note that the hot wire to the tweeter would go to its negative terminal due to the normal phase shift of the crossover.

[g1]

I was hoping Enzo would come along and make everything easier!
Now for the bad part... It looks like the crossover has been bypassed/disabled and the woofers have been hard wired to the 1/4 inch jacks. So it should have still worked and you may have blown speakers. You need to test them with a meter or a quick touch to a 9 volt batt. to see if they make a popping sound. (don't do this to the tweeter)
There should be a 470uf cap. somewhere in the cab connected to the + terminal of the 10". The other end of that 470uf should go to the 15" + terminal or back to the hot of the 1/4 inch jack (pin furthest from the metal plate).
The - terminal of the 10 should go to the - terminal of the 15 or back to the ground of the 1/4 inch jack (pin closest to metal plate).
The picture shows the crossover connections. The red wire still connected needs to be moved. Unwrap that bare black wire (I assume it goes to the tweet+, make sure) and connect it to one of the other speaker (-) terminals. The other end of the white wire should go to the tweet (-) terminal.
You will need to add a wire from the + terminal of the 15 to the lug I have labelled #4, otherwise the binding posts/banana jacks will not work. Make sure the binding posts have proper plastic washers insulating them from the metal plate.
Double check that those doubled up red wires with the blue tape are going where they should as mentioned above.
Good luck