Resurrected Peavey Triumph 60

[Enzo]

The original was not a resistor. The original part was C62, a 0.005uf cap. If you look under the board, you will see the copper traces. The new white 0.005uf cap is soldered to the two bare wires. The old cap that was removed connects to the same place electrically. What happened here is someone replaced the old cap with a new one, and he did it without removing the circuit board to do it. He was lazy. If the white part is in the way of something you want to do, you could remove it and install it where the old part was. The white cap is only 250v, and the voltage at the plate of the adjacent tube is likely below that, but you really should have at least a 500v cap there.

[tedmich]

Score! I get to do my Enzone Dance!

[Enzo]

Yep, you get the points. I wrote that response before I reailzed your post was there. Otherwise I wouldn;t have duplicated your message.

[rsomera]

Thank you tedmich and Enzo. I really appreciate your help and knowledge.

[tedmich]

Yep, you get the points. I wrote that response before I reailzed your post was there. Otherwise I wouldn;t have duplicated your message.

I'm just happy to be correct, and wouldn't have known UNLESS you had posted it Enzo!

[Xenrelic]

Peavey Triumph 60 Reliability Mods

-Replace all old Electrolytic capacitors, these are ready to go by now. Reduces noise and brings full volume back to the amp on all channels.

-Replace all of the blueish colored 1watt metal oxide resistors on the power board and preamp board with 2watt metal oxide resistors. Some of these tend to go out on the PT60 and cause whooshing and pop noises most notably on the crunch and ultra channels.

[bfglp]

this is on my to do list. my crunch and ultra channels fizz and fart out once the amp gets hot, but the clean is always good

[dave1966]

3VAC to ground? Measure AC volts between pins 4/5 and pin 9. I bet you find 6v.

I own the Peavey 60 Triumph, and it has been in the shop for a couple months with a loud humming problem.The tech tells me that he has changed the caps and it is still humming.Can anyone who has had the same problem and has fixed it,or even just know of the same problem i am having, can you please give me some advice or a suggestion on how to get my problem fixed. thank you

[Xenrelic]

I own the Peavey 60 Triumph, and it has been in the shop for a couple months with a loud humming problem.The tech tells me that he has changed the caps and it is still humming.Can anyone who has had the same problem and has fixed it,or even just know of the same problem i am having, can you please give me some advice or a suggestion on how to get my problem fixed. thank you

There are some resistors that tend to go out on the preamp board either due to bad filter caps or because they should have been at least 1/2 watt. You will know they are bad if the voltages to the preamp tubes and filter caps are super high like over 450v. If that's the case then you will need to replace some things.

R5, R19, R20, R21, R22, R23, R97 & R46 1/2 watt metal film. NTE's 1/2 watt flame proof resistors work well and sound best here due to the 20 gauge leads. They will also reduce noise that you would normally get from the stock 1/4 watt carbon film resistors.

Also, check caps C4, C15, C19, C26, C25 and C24. On a DMM with a capacitance setting these may read out near spec but the readings will fluctuate in and way out of its specified rating indicating a problem with the capacitor. I recall C16 and C13 being the cause of gain cutting out on the Crunch and Ultra channels. You would have great clean tone on all 3 channels but ZERO gain on the crunch/ultra.

If you plug into the return jack of the FX loop and still have weird noises, check R78, R83, C56 & C60.

R47 and R39 should be 2w Metal Oxide. I like NTE's 2watt flame proof resistors here.

If you have the time and money, these mods will really tighten up the amp and reduce a lot of noise as well as improve the tone considerably. Plus if you check the board and the voltages are extremely high on the preamp tube sockets, then you'll need to do these mods anyways because a lot of the parts on the preamp board will be toast.

Swap all the 1/4 watt Carbon Film resistors out for 1/2 watt metal film just to make sure that everything is good. Also swap the blue 1w resistors out with 2w metal oxide.

Then change all of the 250v and 400v brownish/red IC metalized polyester film caps out with the red NTE "Mylar" caps which are polyester film and foil type made by Cornell Dubilier a.k.a. the DMT series. They sound way better and fit perfectly in place of the old caps on the preamp board. You can use the 630v rated caps for the 400v caps and use the 250v rated caps for the .1μF 250v caps.

The yellow IC 400v MWR caps can stay unless they are reading out of spec, then I would use direct replacements or the Mallory 150M which are exactly the same.

C25 & C7 use Sprague 225P .015μF 100v

C62 use Sprague 6PS .0068μF 600v and remove or clip the Jumper behind it.

Remove CR1 & CR2 and install a jumper wire in their place.

The .01μF 1kv & .001μF 1kv ceramic caps can be changed out with the Red NTE "Mylar" polyester film and foil 630v rated caps or use the 3kv rated epoxy coated ceramic caps. I usually replace C20 with a .001μF 600v Sprague 6PS or Red NTE and the other two .001μF 1kv C17 & C30 with .001μF 3kv epoxy coated ceramic.

The small resistor looking pF caps can be swapped out with Silver Mica 500v rated.

Then after you replace those parts, replace all of the electrolytic caps on the preamp tube board (excluding the 4700uF 16v caps unless you are not getting the proper 3.5vdc to the heaters) because they will probably have seen in excess of their 450v rating and may be damaged. Use the IC 22μF 500v filter caps from tube-depot as they are the only replacement caps that will fit under the board in this location, other caps such as the Sprague Atom or F&T will be too big here.

[tedmich]

Whoa! That's a lot of soldering! Maybe just checking the grounds and PS filter caps is a better place to start... Xenrelic's mods may indeed improve the sound but are very involved; a lot of PCB traces can be trashed while learning to do all these.

IMHE the 1kV ceramic caps in the PS front end do there job very well and little is gained by replacing them with poly, similar with going ceramic to mica/Ag. The noise lost from going from carbon to metal film/oxide or higher wattage resistors is VERY small and not responsible for your loud hum. Check all the ELs as they go bad subtly while bad resistors usually leave a crater, cheap Ebay cap meters are a good tool to combat hum.

A few questions:

Hum there without guitar & cable plugged in? With cable but without guitar? without speaker plugged in? (kidding!)
Hum change with knob rotation?
Hum with fresh tubes?
Hum with different speaker?
Hum with reverb pan (if present) unplugged?

[Racing]

No offense,but have any of u guys modded amps before?

Just picked one of these babies up....and agreed. It needs a little work. However,why is it that some of you seems to be guessin?

The coupling caps of the crunch and ultra stages are very small. Those of you into amp design...i mean...take a look at the values. OF COURSE the amp is gonna sound thin in overdrive!!!

As for the EQ and diode mods...sure. That apart tho...thereīs no mystery to this. At all IMO.

Within reason,the higher the anode voltage the cleaner the tube will run. The less the cathode coupler...the less gain... Have a look at a Marshall 2203 design...have a look at a Fender AB circuit...THEN listen to what this Peavey will do and judge.

Dayuuumm...half of the posts in here are guesses...no offense but get friggin real...Itīs a tube amp. Circuits in there are old RCA derivates from the 50s. How hard can it get?

[Enzo]

Hi Racing, and welcome to the forum. We hope to hear more from you.

However, let me make a small suggestion. You might read through a few threads to find out who is who and what they might know before making sweeping don;t-you-guys-know-anything remarks. SOme inexperienced guys guess because they have limited knowledge. SOme very experienced guys guess because they are not with the amp and can only rely on the filtered information provided. Sometimes it is unclear what a poster really needs or wants. When a poster finds an aspect of an amp he doesn;t like, he may want to change it. It may be the nature of a particular design to sound some way, but that doesn't mean that a few component changes can;t alter that sound for the better. At least better in the ears of the owner.

[Xenrelic]

Best thing to do is just take your DMM and test voltages first, then you can probe for bad components in the area you find a discrepancy in.

Most Peavey amps come with cheap resistors that fail easily so that's why I always recommend upgrading some of the components on the boards, like say if they are using 1/4th watt carbon film resistors in places where they really should be using at least 1/2" watt but they go with the smaller ones to save money. It doesn't hurt to upgrade stuff that will fail easily.

Peavey usually uses decent metalized polyester capacitors that have an OK tone for modern sounds and the filter caps, even though not the best, get the job done.

I still prefer the vintage polyester film and foil tone and the smoother silver mica pF caps vs. the Metalized polyester and Ceramic caps. That kind of stuff is really up to the player's ears and particular tone preference though.

[Racing]

Enzo.
Point taken and i apologize.


I have spent some time reading up to the best of what iīve could tho. Some of you guys seem to come down on the machine not being of proper quality and i for one,after having ripped the one i just got apart,have a hard time getting that.?
I mean,if any of you guys have ever serviced or modified a modern day Engl or Laney the Triumph comes across like a friggin tank built to be thrown out of a moving tour bus doing 60.

[Enzo]

yes, there are and always will be people's impressions, feelings, and attitudes, some of which can be pretty solid and some pretty flimsy. We have to sort through it all, this is the internet after all.