OK, this isn't rocket surgery, so we are missing something.
First, replace that bad resistor, don't leave it until later.
Second, fight the temptation to change resistor values until AFTER we have the amp working. You may feel uncomfortable with your screen voltage, but thousands and thousands of Peavey tube amps are designed and built the same way, and as far as I know, none of them are 6L6 eaters. SO there is no reason to add potential confusing elements to the troubleshooting process. You can always go back and alter them once the amp works.
Pull ALL the power tubes. You know which tube sockets are working, so pick one. If I read you right, all six power tubes work in "good" sockets, right? Install ONE power tube in a good socket. Verify it makes sound, verify it conducts current. Don;t push it, we are not trying to get any power or tone, we are merely establishing a basis. In the absence of the other tubes, your voltages will be a bit higher.
Now, put a good tube in the "bad" socket. All by itself, no other power tubes. What happens? SOund or silence? Current or none? The lonesome tube will concentraste the troubleshooting right on the tube.
And never assume your measuring process is not involved just because it works on the other sockets. Consider there may be something about the socket adaptor that is not agreeing with that socket. You said you checked voltages at the top of the socket, did you actually also take the readings at the adaptor socket?
You have gone past the "bad resistor" step of repair, something else is amiss. So we have to check everything. No this and that so therefore so and so. We have to measure the so and so, not just infer it from other stuff. SO for example, we can't say to ourselves the socket has all the voltages, and the probe adaptor works in the other sockets, therefore all the voltages are present on top of the adaptor. We have to actually check. No therefores.
I have a little sign that goes up during training sessions, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
And when all seems OK but the problem persists, take the measurements a different way. Using a bias probe in the socket? Take the current reading in shunt of the output transformer then.
A story I think I have told before, but hey... One time I had a Crown 300 amp through the shop. Dead channel. Older model amp, it had 5 fuse holders across the access panel. Two power rail fuses per channel and a mains fuse. Dead channel, loss of V+ on the channel. To make the story short, all 5 fuses OK, and removed and measured OK. V+ on the supply side but not the circuit side of the fuse. Fuse good. Different fuse and the circuit works. Try the "bad" fuse in any of the other fuse holders and it works fine. For some reason that particular fuse would not work in that particular fuseholder. In other words, all I had to do was swap fuses between holders, and the thing was repaired. But I had to get past the "I know the fuse is OK, so that's not it" stage.
First, replace that bad resistor, don't leave it until later.
Second, fight the temptation to change resistor values until AFTER we have the amp working. You may feel uncomfortable with your screen voltage, but thousands and thousands of Peavey tube amps are designed and built the same way, and as far as I know, none of them are 6L6 eaters. SO there is no reason to add potential confusing elements to the troubleshooting process. You can always go back and alter them once the amp works.
Pull ALL the power tubes. You know which tube sockets are working, so pick one. If I read you right, all six power tubes work in "good" sockets, right? Install ONE power tube in a good socket. Verify it makes sound, verify it conducts current. Don;t push it, we are not trying to get any power or tone, we are merely establishing a basis. In the absence of the other tubes, your voltages will be a bit higher.
Now, put a good tube in the "bad" socket. All by itself, no other power tubes. What happens? SOund or silence? Current or none? The lonesome tube will concentraste the troubleshooting right on the tube.
And never assume your measuring process is not involved just because it works on the other sockets. Consider there may be something about the socket adaptor that is not agreeing with that socket. You said you checked voltages at the top of the socket, did you actually also take the readings at the adaptor socket?
You have gone past the "bad resistor" step of repair, something else is amiss. So we have to check everything. No this and that so therefore so and so. We have to measure the so and so, not just infer it from other stuff. SO for example, we can't say to ourselves the socket has all the voltages, and the probe adaptor works in the other sockets, therefore all the voltages are present on top of the adaptor. We have to actually check. No therefores.
I have a little sign that goes up during training sessions, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
And when all seems OK but the problem persists, take the measurements a different way. Using a bias probe in the socket? Take the current reading in shunt of the output transformer then.
A story I think I have told before, but hey... One time I had a Crown 300 amp through the shop. Dead channel. Older model amp, it had 5 fuse holders across the access panel. Two power rail fuses per channel and a mains fuse. Dead channel, loss of V+ on the channel. To make the story short, all 5 fuses OK, and removed and measured OK. V+ on the supply side but not the circuit side of the fuse. Fuse good. Different fuse and the circuit works. Try the "bad" fuse in any of the other fuse holders and it works fine. For some reason that particular fuse would not work in that particular fuseholder. In other words, all I had to do was swap fuses between holders, and the thing was repaired. But I had to get past the "I know the fuse is OK, so that's not it" stage.
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