Hi All,
Sorry about the length... this amp circuit design is unlike anything I've encountered.
I understand how it works in general, but it's.. well..unusual and interesting.
A friend asked me to check the Sylvania STR387 tubes from a Musicman 212-75
(2475-75) amp. He said it was 'shutting down' after about 20 minutes.
My tester is an old Mercury 1100A tester. Just a go/no-go emissions tester.
Tubes checked weak but still functioning. No shorts etc.
So I put then back in and we plugged in switched to High Power and let it idle,
strummed occasionally to check it.
Sure enough, after about 20 minutes, no output. No blown fuses, red plating, pops,
or crackles. No Power supply humming either. Just silence. Power indicator still lit.
Switched off and when powered up 5 minutes later it worked normally.
Tried it at idle and played it switched to Low Power. Didn't quit.
Switched back to High and repeated the loss approx 20 minutes later.
Didn't shut it down. Switched to low power and started running volume
pots min to max, and dimed on the #1 non reverb pot the signal came blasting out
at full volume.
I brought it home to check it out.
Pulled the chassis, and on the bench, could not get it to repeat the problem.
Ended up spraying the pots with Caig's DeOxit and cleaning the input jack switches.
That was 3 days ago and after, many test runs at idle and with guitar plugged in.
No more signal loss. Still not certain that the problem won't come back later.
Measured (Hi/Lo)740v/500v on Plates, 380v/245v on screens, and +22V on Grid.
No evidence of any mods or any previous repair work except for the power switch that had been replaced. Everything else looked good - like new.
Circuit board had FP 2-26-81 written on it. Guessing that was the date of assembly
and initials of assembler or board model.
Driver emitter resistors(3.9ohm) measure 4.3ohms in circuit.
Those resistors seem to be a little over the 5% tolerance.
Driver emitter voltages are 76mv and 80mv.
I've read biasing instructions online that state the lowest should be set at 25mv and
the other should be no higher than 55mv.
Should I go ahead and replace the emitter resistors before retubing and rebiasing?
And, with 740v on the plates, which brands of 6L6GCs could stand the punishment?
Should I tell him to find NOS replacements (expensive) or maybe get a a 'replica'
TAD GE 6L6GC STR Fat Bottle - Tall Black Plate here:Tubes
or Ruby Tubes 6L6GCMSTR Pair Matched from Parts Express (much closer to me)
Sorry about the length... this amp circuit design is unlike anything I've encountered.
I understand how it works in general, but it's.. well..unusual and interesting.
A friend asked me to check the Sylvania STR387 tubes from a Musicman 212-75
(2475-75) amp. He said it was 'shutting down' after about 20 minutes.
My tester is an old Mercury 1100A tester. Just a go/no-go emissions tester.
Tubes checked weak but still functioning. No shorts etc.
So I put then back in and we plugged in switched to High Power and let it idle,
strummed occasionally to check it.
Sure enough, after about 20 minutes, no output. No blown fuses, red plating, pops,
or crackles. No Power supply humming either. Just silence. Power indicator still lit.
Switched off and when powered up 5 minutes later it worked normally.
Tried it at idle and played it switched to Low Power. Didn't quit.
Switched back to High and repeated the loss approx 20 minutes later.
Didn't shut it down. Switched to low power and started running volume
pots min to max, and dimed on the #1 non reverb pot the signal came blasting out
at full volume.
I brought it home to check it out.
Pulled the chassis, and on the bench, could not get it to repeat the problem.
Ended up spraying the pots with Caig's DeOxit and cleaning the input jack switches.
That was 3 days ago and after, many test runs at idle and with guitar plugged in.
No more signal loss. Still not certain that the problem won't come back later.
Measured (Hi/Lo)740v/500v on Plates, 380v/245v on screens, and +22V on Grid.
No evidence of any mods or any previous repair work except for the power switch that had been replaced. Everything else looked good - like new.
Circuit board had FP 2-26-81 written on it. Guessing that was the date of assembly
and initials of assembler or board model.
Driver emitter resistors(3.9ohm) measure 4.3ohms in circuit.
Those resistors seem to be a little over the 5% tolerance.
Driver emitter voltages are 76mv and 80mv.
I've read biasing instructions online that state the lowest should be set at 25mv and
the other should be no higher than 55mv.
Should I go ahead and replace the emitter resistors before retubing and rebiasing?
And, with 740v on the plates, which brands of 6L6GCs could stand the punishment?
Should I tell him to find NOS replacements (expensive) or maybe get a a 'replica'
TAD GE 6L6GC STR Fat Bottle - Tall Black Plate here:Tubes
or Ruby Tubes 6L6GCMSTR Pair Matched from Parts Express (much closer to me)
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