'65 Twin Reverb connector quandry

[phydauex]

Looking for a little information on these darn molex type connectors. I've been through my Mouser catalog and can't seem to find them. I know they are marked AMP u-12, but that doesn't seem to match up to anything. I would like to get a new one to replace the butchered one. I thought they were molex, but these have a spring bayonet that pinches the wire, not a crimped pin.

What are they called and where can I get one?
Thanks evebody.

[Enzo]

Molex is a brand. If yours say AMP on them, then they are made by AMP, another brand. The inline row of pins connectors like this tend to come in two sizes. The larger ones have 0.156" spacing between pin centers. The smaller ones have 0.100 inch spacing, the same as legs on a common IC.

In Molex, the 0.156 spaced ones are in the KK-156 series of connectors. And the smaller are in the KK-100 series. I forget what AMP calls them. Generally, the male pins sticking up bare like they are don;t care what brand female connector is shoved onto them. But the female housings, want to see their own brand fo crimp pins. Put Molex pins in an AMP housing or vice versa, and they may not seat well or click in reliably. So you can replace the AMP ribbon connector with a MOlex, but if you plan to replace pins in that AMP, then get AMP pins.


Each connector comprises a plastic housing, and individual metal pins.

The connector has to get on the end of the wires somehow. One way is to crimp a pin on each wire. You strip back a litttle insulation and crimp a pin on the end of the wire. For mass production they use what is called "insulation displacement connectors" or IDCs. That is what you have there. Instead of crimping individual pins, the pins are already in the connector housing, The insulated wire is pressed into that narrow slit, and the edges of the pin cut through the isulation and make contact with the central conductor of the wire.

It doesn;t matter which type pins you use, crimp on or IDC, as long as they are on the end of the wires reliably. Without a proper push down tool, it is not easy to make a good IDC connection by hand.

Pins are held in place in the housings by a small barb on the pin, the barb catches in a small window. Push the barb in and the pin can be extracted from the housing. When I am feeling motivated, I sometimes will remove a couple burnt IDC pins from the housing, and crimp on new pins to new wire, and shove them into the empty holes. SO I have a connector half IDC and half crimp-pin. Other times, I may make up and entire new cable with crimp pins and toss the old IDC cable. Whatever you prefer.

And if some pins burnt, really just solder wires to the pins and lose the connector completely.

Housings come in various lengths, meaning various numbers of pin holes. I am an old field service guy, so I think in terms of making my own. SO I carry 20-space housings and cut them to length with my dikes. Nothing wrong with orderijng the size you need though. If you buy IDC, the pins should already be in them, but check. In crimp pin connectors you buy the housings and bags of pins separately.

Pins come in sizes other than the basic conector size. SOme are made to crimp around large gauge wire and some are for thin wire. That is a matter of how long the little flags are on the uncrimped pin body. And in IDC, the slot dimensions I suppose. The pins come in various contact surface material. I get the plain old generic, but they also come in gold flashed contact surface and other options. Costs more. So decide if you need pins to fit #18-#16 wire,or more like #24-#20.

Housings are available with and without the locking tab or guides.

The crimp pins have little tabs or flags as I like to call them sticking from the end of each pin. A proper crimp tool bends those flags down into the insulation of the wire. You need to use a proper crimp tool, not the plain old crush-it crimper for like fork lugs. A real Molex hand crimper should cost like $20,under $30 certainly. You don;t need the $150 one.

[phydauex]

Thanks for all the useful info. When looking at all the nomenclature, I had no idea what IDC meant, now I do. That's a good idea to have some blank material and cut it to size, I thought each connector base (male) had special looking tabs/grooves, so you could only use a specific female housing with it. I've got no problem mixing crimp with IDC. I'll order some of the .1 blanks, if I can find the IDC that'll work, otherwise I'll make it myself. Once again, thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
Matt

[Billy R aka DynaFreak]

I have several of those, (good, used, Fender parts) with the ribbon cable attached if you are interested I will send you one for a minimal fee.

[phydauex]

Hey Billy, I'd love that. Sent you a personal message.
thanks MM