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Crate V100H, Loud Technologies, Parts, Replacement Power Supply

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  • Crate V100H, Loud Technologies, Parts, Replacement Power Supply

    Hi,

    Is it impossible to get replacement parts of a Crate V-series amp?? I am working on a Crate V series 100 watt head it has a bad primary in the power supply... for starters. Kind of an odd looking board attached outside on top of the amp chassis. I cannot find anywhere to replace this part. Is it just a disposable amp.... or is there some way to retrofit another power supply in there to make the amp functional again?

    Thanks,
    Dave

  • #2
    I noticed another thread from JUne of 2010 discussing the same issue of the SMPS. Didn't notice any resolution of the issue though... or how it was achieved.

    Any help with diagnosing which diodes may need replacing would be helpful. I am getting inconsistent readings on the heater filaments for the tubes. Some well under 6.0 volts. First power tube had the lowest reading of 5.3. I also tested the reading on the pilot light and got 12.0 volts.

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    • #4
      The amp is not dispoable, the amp is repairable, so that is what we do.

      What do you mean by bad primary in the power supply? The mains is not getting to the rectifier?
      Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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      • #5
        I noticed a few post about this problem and if your having the same problem i see a lot when you are getting all the voltages accept the hv plate supply coming from the smps even with out the amp hooked up to the power supply then what i see happening is mosfet Q1 or Q2 -IRF840a's source is shorting to the heat sink. some times you can see a small little chard mark and what looks like just a tiny bit of dust right around that lead but sometimes i dont see anything at all really.
        I find when that blows it takes most of the small surface mount parts connected to the mosfets including r8, 9, 10, r 11, 12, 13, Q3, Q4, D9, D10, check the small transformer T2 and you should maybe go ahead and change out d11-14 regardless if the test good or not. If you look really close with a bright light you can see little holes on alot of these surface mount diodes transisters and resistors but sometimes you dont. But if you do see a little dimple on one of the sm parts thats not for polarity or on the others change it out regardless cause it got way hotter then it should have and its prob stressed, they usually just all blow open most of the time. Oh and c10 will go sometimes as well esp if it was q1 thats blown
        You may need to replace u1 ka2535a the pwm regulator esp if the diodes 11-14 or transformer T2 has had its windings shorted togethor. I think you get 15 volts out of pin 15 of u1, some one correct me if im wrong about that i cant remeber what they have it supplying at at the moment.
        Then if you have dont have any problems on the other side of the transformer 1 and all your other voltages are good you should be ok. Its a pain replacing those sm parts so make as much space as you can in between the mosfet leads and the heatsink put some silicon glue in between so it wont happen again and cause you more problems
        I dont know if that helps but its what ive seen a couple times now.
        Guitar amplifier repairs at AudioWorks
        713-89-Fix-It (893-4948)
        http://www.audioworksrepairs.com

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        • #6
          Opening the chassis...

          Hi! Digging an old thread...is there a easy way to disassemble the Crate V100h?
          I mean, most amps I moded, it just took 6 screws to open it. Crate V100h seems to be needed to disassemble the back grill, front panel wood, front gril, and then the screws ate the bottom?? There isn't any other way?

          Regards,

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          • #7
            what a god awful piece of crap

            Originally posted by Tiago View Post
            Hi! Digging an old thread...is there a easy way to disassemble the Crate V100h?
            I mean, most amps I moded, it just took 6 screws to open it. Crate V100h seems to be needed to disassemble the back grill, front panel wood, front gril, and then the screws ate the bottom?? There isn't any other way?

            Regards,
            i'm tired of banging my head against the wall rebuilding this power board and the trans arced like a flyback and blew the irf840s in half. wth?

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