Is it me or does it seem every time you order solder, the price has gone up a couple bucks?
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I ordered a roll the other day at Mouser and it was $45 and the women sales chick told me that everyone who calls says "damn" are you kidding me ? No I'm not it hiked up just like the 20uf Sprague filter caps. It's not just Keyster either, it's all of them.KB
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Originally posted by Amp Kat View PostI ordered a roll the other day at Mouser and it was $45 and the women sales chick told me that everyone who calls says "damn" are you kidding me ? No I'm not it hiked up just like the 20uf Sprague filter caps. It's not just Keyster either, it's all of them.
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Originally posted by Prairie Dawg View PostI guess I did pretty good then, I bought a metal box at an auction for 8 dollars that had ten 1-pound rolls of .030 rosin core electronics solder that probably got boosted from Collins. Just looked at the Mouser site....yikes!
KB
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I'v e been desperately trying to stick to 63/35/2 silver-bearing solder. We've been using it forever and I love the solder joints it produces, but that 2% silver content is astronomical, so I am returning to straight 63/37 eutectic solder. Still good stuff. I ordered two 1lb. rolls of Kester 245 .031" from Parts Express last week. $25.62/roll. Not too bad. Mouser is pricey for solder. I perused all of my catalogs for the cheapest prices, and though I order a lot from Mouser, they didn't cut it.
You need an account with commercial pricing from Parts Express to get their best discount.
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I did an article on another forum concerning RoHs issues etc. Just in case you want to read it:
http://www.300guitars.com/articles/n...n-to-musicians
It's worthwhile to note that military, medical and avionics are exempt from RoHs solder use. Basically, anything that REALLY has to work can still use lead-based solder.
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Originally posted by dai h. View PostMaybe you have lead in mind? ROHS compliant solders do contain tin AFAIK.The farmer takes a wife, the barber takes a pole....
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I don't use anywhere near as much solder as most of you, but it looks like this is a good time to make a bulk purchase for the future. The last time I bought solder it was a close out special. Perfectly good Kester stuff, but in a diameter or spool size that they were no longer going to produce. I don't recall the exact price, but it was about a 50% discount at the time. I would have to say that the loading of flux in this solder is pretty high. More than is needed and it leaves a bunch of crud on the board. Probably why they got rid of it. The other solder I use is (hold your noses) "silver bearing solder" from Radio Shack. This is available in very fine diameters and is very good for working on small pads in tight places.
I guess I really need to have a closer look at my soldering work flow. I usually grab a good length off the spool and wind it around my fingers to make a convenient working piece. As I get towards the ends or if it gets too tangled, I'll toss it and start over. There must be a better way. How do all of you handle your solder? Do you just take it right off the spool as you work or do you break it down into smaller pieces even though this may lead to short ends headed for the trash?
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I bought 15 1lb rolls of Kester back in the late 90s and I'm still well stocked. I did the same thing with NOS tubes but I'm running out of those and boy have they gotten expensive.Warning! Some Electronics devices contain lethal voltages that can kill you. If you do not feel qualified to work with dangerous voltages, refer your repairs to a qualified technician. By giving you online advice, I am assuming no liability for any injury or damages you might incur through your own actions.
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