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Peavey Classic 30 grief

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  • Peavey Classic 30 grief

    I hope someone can shed some light on my Classic 30 problem before I throw it out of an upstairs window, then reverse my car over it. Several times...

    It's a 1994 model and hasn’t been thrashed or abused in any way. I'd never had any electronic mods done until a few months ago, and after much research changed the speaker to an Eminence Private Jack - which made a big improvement. It was surely a coincidence (and / or the fact that the speaker upgrade was making me use the amp a lot more), but there was a noticeable burning smell one day. I switched it off at once and booked it in to my local Peavey repairs dept. They tested it and found nothing amiss other than a corroded extension speaker jack, which they replaced. I'd heard differing views on how soon filter caps should be replaced (anything from as soon as 3 years), so in view of its age, I asked them to do the work. Afterwards, it still didn't sound right to me, so recently I got an independent amp tech to check it out, and make some of the popular mods (cathode bias, simplified input stage and tone stack cap changes, plus pentode / triode switch).

    With a fairly fresh set of TAD EL84s in, it then sounded FANTASTIC - the tones in clean or overdriven mode were so inspiring that I was playing until my fingers were VERY sore. Which is how it should be, I think! It was a real 'golden' sound - a cross between a cranked Fender Deluxe and Vox AC30, with a hint of 'proper' non-master volume Marshall. And it sounded great with any guitar. Oh Joy.

    But after a few days, the magic started to drift away, and the key indicators / symptoms of something amiss are:

    - Clean mode; what was a 'room-filling' volume as low as number 2 is now 4 to 5, and there's no sparkle, richness or warmth to the sound,

    - Overdriven mode; comments as above, and no combination of pre and post control settings gives a natural, smooth lead tone - it’s always unpleasantly ‘grainy’ and cold - like an old-style transistor amp,

    - both modes; the treble and middle pots have to be wound down so low (to reduce the harshness) that the tone is so muddy as to be unusable - even with humbuckers,

    - most significantly perhaps(?), the normally excessive (by popular opinion) volume / tone 'bump' with the boost button in is now very subtle - whereas before, it was very noticeable, and an extreme increase at mid to high volume levels - as many people have commented.

    Overall, it now just sounds cold, flat, dull and lifeless. I've tried numerous pre and power tube output swaps - with no joy (when it was working well, the difference between JJ and TAD EL84s was marked - with the TADs sounding much warmer and slightly louder), and any change in pre-amp sets makes no difference - apart from using 5751 / 12AT7 in various positions - when it’s the same sound, just a little quieter!).

    I'm not an electronics person, so I can only guess at what the problem could be, but to my ears, it SOUNDS as though the amp is either trying to operate on a reduced domestic supply voltage (which I know is ok) or there's a voltage supply issue inside the amp - as though the tubes (esp. the output quad) aren't 'cooking' properly, and are just ‘idling’, rather than working hard. This theory could be in line with my reduced volume comment in clean mode. My tech put a bias voltage test jack on the chassis, and that's reading ok, at 30 to 32ma per tube - maybe the output transformer is faulty, and and not hitting the speaker with the right voltage? Does anyone out there have any idea what could be wrong?

    My poor amp tech was very stressed at having to open the worlds’ most difficult to work on amp up for a second time (to do the cap mods), and I was hoping that I could at least give him some informed pointers when he has it back for a third time!

    Hope someone can give me a clue as to what the problem is,

    Thanks in anticipation!

  • #2
    just curious, does your bias test jack read the bias current for each power tube independently? In other words can you verify that each pwr tube is operating?

    there are many things that could cause your problem. first thing to consider would be one of the mods come undone somehow, bad solder joints, lifted pcb trace etc. Although the Classic series amps layout does make them somewhat of a pain to work on, the circuit is pretty simple and troubleshooting should be pretty easy. For problems like yours it is always pretty much the same drill: test all tubes and replace with known good ones, check all tube socket voltages, test the power section and make sure it is putting out rated clean pwr, and if all that passes muster then starting a more detailed inspection of the preamp, stage by stage.

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    • #3
      Sounds like a bad power tubes nearing it's end. Remember playing in Cathode mode may eat up the EL-84's a little quicker than fixed bias mode. It is possible as above ^^said a mod may have come loose.
      KB

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      • #4
        I just overhauled a mid 70's Gibson Thor bass amp. "Forgot" to retension the output tube sockets (my bad- lesson learned). Result was that one output tube vibrates enough that the filament supply pins disengage, tube goes "out", loss of volume, sounds "flat" and distortion sets in early. Sound familiar? Hope this helps.

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        • #5
          wow... there is way to much going on here. You need to find a GOOD tech to take a look at it.
          The "burning smell" always has a cause!!
          Plus all the mods on top of that... who knows what the hell is going on??

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          • #6
            Originally posted by vavlehead View Post
            wow... there is way to much going on here. You need to find a GOOD tech to take a look at it.
            The "burning smell" always has a cause!!
            Plus all the mods on top of that... who knows what the hell is going on??
            Bingo!

            Comment


            • #7
              I would tell your tech to double check his earlier work, but more importantly to check the pc board interconnecting ribbon cables. Every time this amp is opened up and worked on it brings it one step closer to a wire break.

              Comment


              • #8
                PV C30/DB amps are a PITA to work on. I once pulled a C30 apart and put it back together 13 times in one weekend trying to track down a loose connection (which turned out to be in the extn socket jumper cable - the output socket wiring is daft) - nearly had apoplexy. On top of that, the way those boards are assembled makes changing parts a real mission. On top of that the amp has so much padding between the stages (and so many pre-amp stages), that it is difficult to mod without unanticipated changes. You will need bucketloads of patience to track down a fault in a modification. Good luck
                Building a better world (one tube amp at a time)

                "I have never had to invoke a formula to fight oscillation in a guitar amp."- Enzo

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the quick replies!

                  Hi folks, I'm new to this forum but I have a very old and flaky AppleMac, so I'll have to combine my responses to your posts! And thanks again for responding... • The bias test jack is for all 4 tubes at once. • The TADs are only a few weeks old, so can't have more than 20 hours tops of wear on them, and I've tried using other sets of 4, but with no improvement. The JJs have about 40 hours at the most on them. • Yes, I understand that a cathode biased amp can wear power tubes a bit faster, but I had an old AC30 years ago which I used to run flat out with a treble booster - and rehearse / gig several times a week, and the tubes used to last ages. I guess one logical and less expensive test would be to buy a new set of TADs and see how good they sound. And for how long - before getting experienced eyes on it. •*The burning smell never came back, and no-one has been able to locate the source. D'oh! • One thing I forgot to put in my original post is that the chassis and output transformer don't get as hot as when it was sounding good, so maybe that could be a clue?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks for the quick replies!

                    Thanks for the quick replies!
                    Hi folks, I'm new to this forum but I have a very old and flaky AppleMac, so I'll have to combine my responses to your posts! And thanks again for responding... (and sorry if this is duplicate elsewhere!) • The bias test jack is for all 4 tubes at once. • The TADs are only a few weeks old, so can't have more than 20 hours tops of wear on them, and I've tried using other sets of 4, but with no improvement. The JJs have about 40 hours at the most on them. • Yes, I understand that a cathode biased amp can wear power tubes a bit faster, but I had an old AC30 years ago which I used to run flat out with a treble booster - and rehearse / gig several times a week, and the tubes used to last ages. I guess one logical and less expensive test would be to buy a new set of TADs and see how good they sound. And for how long - before getting experienced eyes on it. •*The burning smell never came back, and no-one has been able to locate the source. D'oh! • One thing I forgot to put in my original post is that the chassis and output transformer don't get as hot as when it was sounding good, so maybe that could be a clue?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I would not throw any more tubes at the amp.
                      What 52Bill had to say about the ribbon connectors is a very valid concern.
                      Don't give up on the amp.
                      With the symptoms that you are describing, a good tech, armed with some decent test euipment, should be able to nail the problem down.

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