Hmmm... Right. Was the input power checked at the send transistor output or the signal that feeds the send transistor? If there is less than a volt feeding the send transistor that would be waayyy too low. The send transistor would be changing signal into power to drive the tank. Maybe check the voltage right on the input transducer itself under what should be operating conditions.
Ad Widget
Collapse
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Reverb Hum
Collapse
X
-
"Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
-
It's only around 0.5v AC I'm seeing, is that enough? That is measured at the end of the send connector that would plug into the pan, by strumming the guitar.
I have rechecked the input to the pan. Between the centre of the connector and the shield I am seeing 60 ohm.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Shawnobi View PostIt's only around 0.5v AC I'm seeing, is that enough? That is measured at the end of the send connector that would plug into the pan, by strumming the guitar.
I have rechecked the input to the pan. Between the centre of the connector and the shield I am seeing 60 ohm.
I've noticed that if I do a resistance check across R26 I get 3.7k. I know this could be decieving in circuit, but it's supposed to be 22k resistor. (Clutching at straws now!)
Here is the reverb circuit btw
http://music-electronics-forum.com/a...c30-reverb.jpgLast edited by Shawnobi; 06-30-2011, 06:26 PM.
Comment
-
What we use to do was go to the accutronics site. It was the bomb for reverb tech info. Unfortunately the company seems to have sold to an overseas competitor and I'm no longer able to find good technical info on their web site. Unless someone was real slick and saved that info... I don't think the resistance of the transducers was a figure they gave anyway. Do you have another amp around? If you have another amp, a male to two female 1/4" Y splitter and a 1/4" female to RCA female adaptor (plus a few carefully chosen resistors) you could probably test the tank independant of the input circuit in the broken amp."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
Comment
-
Did you check continuity on the cable?"Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
Comment
-
I'm having a hard time coming up something else besides everything. You say that every single component in the chain is fine and that signal is getting to the tank, which is good, and if you jostle the amp you do hear reverb at the output, so all that is good. Nothing is broken, there is no lack of signal, so no shorts or faults, and all readings check out... It's fixed
Seriously though, we know the output is good because you can hear it working. The tank is new and the input ohms out correct (though that doesn's mean it's working). You do have a voltage reading at the output of the driver that is signal dependant. So...
Something your reading is leading you false. Put a 600 ohm resistor in the circuit where the tank should be and take some readings to see if you actually have any drive voltage AND current to the tank. If you do then the tank input is bad.
This may seem insulting, but were you sure to remove any packing materials from the springs used to stabilize them for shipping?Last edited by Chuck H; 07-08-2011, 12:21 AM."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
Comment
-
The resistance of the transducers won't be wrong, they will either be open or they will be OK. COntinuity check is all you need.
A few posts ago you mentioned the cable feeding the INPUT jack of the pan was grounded to the chassis. WHy? The schematic shows the return from that cable - the shield - not grounded at all, but connected to C28 and pin 2 of the op amp.
Your op amp runs on -30v with reference to -15. That means with respect to chassis, I would expect about -15v on the output of the op amp. And that means on the input of the pan. The return - shield - is therefor also sitting at -15v to chassis. C28 blocks that DC. If you ground the shield, then you are grounding off the output of your reverb drive op amp.
Correct the cable wiring back to the correct configuration. J6 gets the hot and J29 the shield from the INPUT cable to the pan.
Only the shield of the return cable - from OUTPUT jack on pan - is grounded. And that ground is J30.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
Comment
-
Hi Enzo,
The cables to the pan were the wrong way around initially, so I corrected that. So J6 & J29 are the correct send to the pan. Neither screen nor signal is grounded.
I'm not seeing a -15v at the end of those wires though. Around half a volt when I strum a guitar. I'm still suspecting the drive circuit but I'm strugglnig to see what's wrong. I'm sure something is pulling that signal down somewhere though.
Borrowing a scope and also a signal generator this weekend so will retake all the measurements again. Hopefully will use the signal generator to feed the drive circuit direct. Would you know what kind of signal the reverb drive should be seeing from the 12AX7's that drive into it?
Chuck - thanks for the 600ohm tip. I'll also scour the pan for any hidden packing material. I'm not ruling anything out!
Comment
-
Originally posted by Shawnobi View PostHi Enzo,
The cables to the pan were the wrong way around initially, so I corrected that. So J6 & J29 are the correct send to the pan. Neither screen nor signal is grounded.
I'm not seeing a -15v at the end of those wires though.
Originally posted by Enzo View PostThe schematic shows the return from that cable - the shield - not grounded at all, but connected to C28 and pin 2 of the op amp.
Your op amp runs on -30v with reference to -15. That means with respect to chassis, I would expect about -15v on the output of the op amp. And that means on the input of the pan. The return - shield - is therefor also sitting at -15v to chassis. C28 blocks that DC. If you ground the shield, then you are grounding off the output of your reverb drive op amp.
Correct the cable wiring back to the correct configuration. J6 gets the hot and J29 the shield from the INPUT cable to the pan.
Only the shield of the return cable - from OUTPUT jack on pan - is grounded. And that ground is J30.
I'm having some trouble deciphering your descriptions, but, if you DO have it wired just as described and as the schematic shows then there may be a problem with your -15V source reference."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
Comment
-
Originally posted by Chuck H View PostRe-read:
I'm having some trouble deciphering your descriptions, but, if you DO have it wired just as described and as the schematic shows then there may be a problem with your -15V source reference.Last edited by Shawnobi; 07-08-2011, 05:23 PM.
Comment
Comment