Epiphone valve standard DSP/reverb problem

[bigjoe]

Bought a valve standard that cuts out after a few minutes (knew it had the problem and figured it was a tube), but would immediately come back on. 5 minutes with the cover off poking around I found a bad cap that re-produced the problem by tapping on it with a plastic marker. Found another cap with questionable solder and a crack by the lead.

Changed the caps, one on V3 input ( and the other not sure). Put everything back together, and now the reverb and DSP effets are not working but did before changing the caps. Amp works great otherwise. Played it quite a few times couple of hours at a time and the cutout problem has not returned. Not concerned with DSP effects, but I would like to have the reverb. I have taken it apart a few more times checking connections, solder joints etc...

Any ideas? I swapped V3 (12AX7) with V2 (12AX7) thinking maybe a bad valve. Gibson sent me a schematic, but no voltages or anything on it. It looks like V3 is used for the DSP even though it has a chip for the DSP stuff. As best I can tell V3 is in the power section and not the pre-amp. V1 and V2 are definately pre-amp (12AX7).

I could not pass it up for the price, and my intent was to use it for parts to build a project amp if I could not get it going. I like it and will use it regardless. Its bothering me I probably did something to screw the effects up.

I have searched extensivley on the internet for anything pertaining to this amp, and it either has no problems (doubtful with the workmanship I have seen on my PCB) or just has not been around long enough. I have found many sites with info for vavle jr (including this one), and valve special to a lesser extent.

[bigjoe]

I feel like a jackass at this point.

I checked voltages were I could. Voltages were correct where ever I checked.

The DSP light came on with the card removed. I wanted to check the voltages in the connector for the DSP card as checking them on the card was kind of difficult.

While I had the card out I looked at it under a magnifying lense with a light. At some point I must have dripped solder across a few leads in the DSP board (very small amount like the solder tip was dragged across it). I don't ever recall having the board anywhere close to where I was soldering. When I pulled it out I put it in a staic bag and set it aside. I cleaned it up and now my effects work. I have not been impressed with the workmanship on the board, but I doubt it was from the factory as the DSP did work before I changed caps.