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AOR intermittent low output

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  • AOR intermittent low output

    Howdy,

    I have an 8 knob laney AOR with an intermittent output problem.
    A little back story; we were rehearsing and something happened leading to both my amp and the bass amp cutting out. The bass amp wouldn't come back on (although it was fine the week after) and my amp would sound odd when turned up, like it was cutting in and out with poor bass response. No smoke or funny smells.

    Initial testing (copied from another forum)

    I've just run the thing up pretty much near dimed and clean without too much to report, there was a little bit of a hiccup with the volumes all up and the bass (with boost) on full. My neighbours might think otherwise however. The OT was cold and the PT was only just warm and it had been running for 10's of minutes.

    I set about trying to replicate the fault, so into the high input I go and the gain boost was added with the gain and level controls all pretty high to dimed (the AOR has a very odd preamp and effectively have 3 gain controls in this mode!) and everything is fine until the master gets to about 1 o'clock and then the problem starts. I put down the guitar and periodically hit the low B (yes B, I'm childish) while poking about with a meter checking voltages and then there is a serious drop in output and I think "oh, thats done it, bugger." I turn off the amp and reset the dials. A short while afterwards I get brave and turn it back on, still quiet, maybe a few Watts output with the levels all high enough to strip paint. I then pull the bass boost out and there is a short crackle and then its obnoxiously loud again which was quite the surprise. I went back to running it clean and it would run full tilt with no complaints.

    Additionally I poked about with a chopstick and didn't find anything that was obviously loose or significantly microphonic. The biggest offenders seem to be the high input jack and one of the gain pots. Interestingly the problem still occurs with no input and the jacks are shorting.



    Upon suggestion I replaced the inputs as they were noisy which may explain some of the noise, however, the amp still isn't putting out anything near its full power which should strip paint from walls with ease.

    I did a sweep of the preamp from the low input onwards, measuring the plate and cathode voltages. I also scoped the output from the plates.

    All the voltages looked sensible or tallied with the ones from the AOR100H schematic where given (attached). Plate for V103B was slightly high, 158V, when 142V was specified which isn't a kick in the pants from 10% tolerance so I doubt a problem.

    I input a 370Hz sine wave at 1Vpp from my audio interface using NCH yielding the following outputs throughout the preamp:

    V102A 4.5Vpp plate

    V102B 65Vpp plate

    V103A (CF) 65Vpp cathode

    Tonestack all at noon, no boosts

    V103B 78Vpp plate (The AOR has an odd topology!)

    I then checked the PI with the master on 2 where both outputs were about 14Vpp. I dimed the master and got ~125Vpp. One of the plates is at 183V when 200V is specified. Cathodes both at 35V.

    This leads me to believe that the gremlins lurk somewhere in the power amp. Any suggestions on how to proceed? Could this be a shot OT? What is the best way to check this? It does return to normal volume on occasion for reasons unkown. Bias is -42V.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I've repaired quite a lot of Laney amps that have failed solder joints causing intermittent volume problems. The places to look are around the solder pads. These go especially bad where hot or high power components mount, or where the joint can be stressed (like input jacks). You need to closely inspect the solder side of the boards, after first discharging the HT filter caps. A failed joint will have a circular crack around it - sometimes they look like a small volcano. Unless you have very good eyesight, get a magnifying glass form Wilko or Poundland. The joints can get so bad the component lead is left isolated from the pad, but they give trouble long before they get to that stage. They just need re-soldering if you find any. I would say most Laney repairs are for failed joints. Lead-free boards are the worst

    I bought my AOR new in about '87, so I guess yours is about the same age. Plenty of time for joints to play up.

    I would concentrate on the following;

    Any power resistor, or even any resistor over 1/2 watt
    Filter caps
    Valve bases
    Pot legs
    Input jacks
    Output Jacks.
    Board connections to transformer leads.

    The FX loop can also play up - the contacts oxidise through lack of use and cause severe volume drop. I clean the contacts by folding a strip of 2000 grade wet-or-dry 3mm wide so that both sides are abrasive, open the contacts with a jack plug, insert the strip, pull the plug out so it traps the strip, then pull the strip out. Do this a few times for each contact on the send/return. Take a look at SKT105 (IN) first. In fact, this is probably the first thing to eliminate. An easy check without dismantling the amp is to use a short patch lead to link both sockets and see if the condition improves.

    I don't think the OPT has failed. On larger Laneys they go for good and don't give intermittent problems. Often the output valves fail at the same time.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the tips. I should have some time over christmas to give the amp a good going over.

      Comment


      • #4
        So I dug this back out to have a look. Cleaned up all the jacks and pots. Still pretty damn quiet. I then thought to try the OT secondary taps:
        16 ohm tap - sound
        8 ohm tap - sound
        4 ohm tap - not a peep

        Perhaps the OT has had its day

        Comment


        • #5
          There you go.
          The 4 ohm winding is dead.
          Good call testing the other windings

          Comment


          • #6
            Just weighing up my options now.
            Laney do have spares but god knows if they'll sell me one.
            I could get it rewound - probably not worth the cost.
            I could use a drop in hammond as I can get those easily(ish) but I dont know the best spec to shoot for.
            I could get a custom one made for not a great deal more than the hammond with a middle of the road primary, say 2k or so.

            Comment


            • #7
              Were you bypassing the impedance selector switch to test the OT taps? Or is it possible the impedance selector switch is bad?
              Originally posted by Enzo
              I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


              Comment


              • #8
                The switch could be bad. I'll try hardwiring the taps in turn. If it is bad then I'm going to pull the OT and poke about with it to see what I can learn from it.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Zozobra View Post
                  The switch could be bad. I'll try hardwiring the taps in turn. If it is bad then I'm going to pull the OT and poke about with it to see what I can learn from it.
                  I've had to replace a few of those output impedance switches, so check that before replacing the output tranny.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks, I'll try that when I get home. Did they amp suffer similar symptoms prior to replacing the switch?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      As suggested I tried bypassing the switch. I wired the 8ohm lead straight to the output and saw no improvement
                      I'll try the other leads.

                      Comment

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