What is the best cleaner for pots and faders?

[AMPREPAIR]

The problem with Caig is that their spray can design is retarded. It only works a couple times after you shake it really well after each spray. The can must be upright. The design is a royal pain.

Have you tried rotating the nozzle 180 degrees? I have successfully done this with other propellent products. I think rotating the nozzle will ensure the "pick-up" tube inside the can will move to the liquid side, allowing you to "lean" the product into a more convenient position. Just a thought.

I hope this doesn't begin another topic for this thread. I am enjoying the "on topic" suggestions about the best cleaner/lubricants for potentiometers and faders. Incidentally, another product that was suggested to me on the telephone is is called "Contact Cleaner" ( Private Label - Contact Cleaner ). I believe this is a cleaner without lubricants.

[soundguruman]

You are making a big mistake using contact cleaner. It strips the lubrication out of the control, and may damage the internal insulation.
Contact cleaner is for application to metal only, like relay contacts.
It will damage plastic, carbon, and other materials used in modern assemblies. Big Big mistake.

[AMPREPAIR]

You are making a big mistake using contact cleaner. It strips the lubrication out of the control, and may damage the internal insulation.
Contact cleaner is for application to metal only, like relay contacts.
It will damage plastic, carbon, and other materials used in modern assemblies. Big Big mistake.

After reviewing the terrific comments in this thread, it has become very clear that using only a "contact cleaner" is NOT a good idea (especially if the cleaner is harsh enough to damage resistive surfaces or other parts). However, using appropriate cleaning chemicals may be an important part of rejuvenating potentiometers and faders. It seems "contact cleaners" are used to "flush" contaminants away from critical surfaces - but it is also important to lubricant after cleaning. Some products claim to clean and lubricate - I assume this is done by flooding the control with products that are mostly cleaning solution, then after evaporation, a lubricant residue is left behind. I agree; using a "contact cleaner" alone is not the way to go.

[blue arrow]

It depends on what brand and chemical makeup of the contact cleaner.

You are making a big mistake using contact cleaner. It strips the lubrication out of the control, and may damage the internal insulation.
Contact cleaner is for application to metal only, like relay contacts.
It will damage plastic, carbon, and other materials used in modern assemblies. Big Big mistake.

It depends on what brand and chemical makeup of the contact cleaner you are using determines whether it is safe to use or not. Caig D100 contact cleaner is safe on all plastics, faders, volume knobs etc.

According to Caig and all experienced technicians out there, you must clean then lube to make a lasting restore job. And these two products D100 and F100 by Caig work on the molecular level of all contact metals, carbon and conductive plastic, making the surface contacts free from oxidation, oxidized particles and build up of foreign material. And it actually increases the conductivity of the contact material, or at very least restores it to factory condition.

Then the F100 lube takes the place of the previous lube or original factory lube, with one additional benefit, it protects the contacts from oxidizing again for a long long time. You can use other lubes but they may not be as long lasting in terms of contact protection and deoxidizing performance, keeping the scratchy noise out of your audio gear allot longer.

I use Caig D100 dropper bottle to thoroughly clean the contacts and then the Caig F100 faderlube to finish the job. As far as the Caig G100 gold contact cleaner, keep in mind it is meant specifically for gold connections and it is not universally used for everything, you should use the right Caig chemicals for the job.

No chemical cleaner and lube is absolutely universal, but the Caig products come close.

Caig products seem to work the best without issues, although there are some issues with Caig D5 cleaner and care should be used, since it has petroleum distillate thinners it can and will swell rubber contact switches, and in some cases it can jam the rubber contact button by swelling it up, you will need to allow a week before it dries out and the rubber buttons have time to shrink back to normal size for the rubber button to function once again. And if this thinned down version of D100 gets on certain areas like LCD screens it may cause damage or discolor, also it may dissolve glues used to adhere faceplate paneling and display stickers, so be careful where you spray it. (Caig D5 spray bottle is 5% product and the rest of the 95% is a petroleum thinner)

[Mick Bailey]

I've been using Kontakt PR pot regenerator from AG Thermopasty for the past year or so with good results. I started using their contact cleaner for general use and was impressed by how good it is so moved on to other products. When you spray the PR onto a surface it foams slightly then evaporates to a very thin film of lubricant. It's propanol-based so doesn't have a tendency to dissolve the spindle lube, which is mineral-based grease. I've pulled many pots back from the grave with this product. More European products are moving away from petroleum solvents and this is good news for plastics.

Sometimes the only way to clean a pot is to take it apart and clean it, especially if it's from valuable vintage equipment. It also gives the opportunity to see if the track needs replacing. Remove the old grease from the spindle and re-lubricate with 'Kilopoise'. The track needs its own lubricant too before putting it back together.

I no longer discard old pots from equipment. The combinations of shaft type/length/diameter and other physical characteristics are getting harder to find for pre-80s gear. Some pot manufactureres such as Citec use a modular construction and the tracks and other components are interchangeable.

[soundguruman]

I've been using Kontakt PR pot regenerator from AG Thermopasty for the past year or so with good results. I started using their contact cleaner for general use and was impressed by how good it is so moved on to other products. When you spray the PR onto a surface it foams slightly then evaporates to a very thin film of lubricant. It's propanol-based so doesn't have a tendency to dissolve the spindle lube, which is mineral-based grease. I've pulled many pots back from the grave with this product. More European products are moving away from petroleum solvents and this is good news for plastics.

Sometimes the only way to clean a pot is to take it apart and clean it, especially if it's from valuable vintage equipment. It also gives the opportunity to see if the track needs replacing. Remove the old grease from the spindle and re-lubricate with 'Kilopoise'. The track needs its own lubricant too before putting it back together.

I no longer discard old pots from equipment. The combinations of shaft type/length/diameter and other physical characteristics are getting harder to find for pre-80s gear. Some pot manufactureres such as Citec use a modular construction and the tracks and other components are interchangeable.

I use G100 on everything, except high temperature. Not just for gold. Works on pretty much anything. Better than anything tried so far.
Protects better in salty marine / humid environments. Very expensive.
Yes, cleaning is first, but not with contact cleaner. "contact cleaner" infers just for metal relay contacts. Eats plastic, and don't recommend using it.
Most people will not use any of the good ones, because they cost too much.
I mean, what's the point of spending $30 on 2 oz of cleaner for 6 pots? Well, it's worth it in the long run.
Radio shack contact cleaner is mineral oil. The best choice if you are broke, but doesn't last very long.
I Use food grade silicon grease (mix w/ slick 50) (scuba divers lube) for mechanical wear friction surfaces..not on the electrical contact parts.
The idea behind the grease is to hold the oil in place. You will see the most experienced mix grease with oil for mechanical wear surface areas. The oil is for lubrication, and the grease prevents it from running out of the assembly.

[Chuck H]

Your pretty much spot on. But you forgot to include anything about cleaning!?! There are also solvents in those products that clean the surface. Those solvents evaporate and leave the lubricant behind (because the lubricant is compatible). The primary agent being mineral spirits. Commercially known as "paint thinner". Incidentally, it's the same stuff they sell as "fuel injector cleaner" at the auto parts store. A 3oz. can of paint thinner for $6.99! Then there's DeoxIT!!! I don't have a can on hand, but there are other cleaners in that product that help remove and reduce oxidation of metal contacts. Something mineral oil, grease and paint thinner can't do. This would be a contact CLEANER and should be followed by a lubricant if it applies.

[Mick Bailey]

Kontakt PR contains propanol as well as lubricants. It foams and clears the track, then evaporates and leaves the lubricant. When I take a pot apart I clean the track with propanol and then wipe over it with Kontakt PR. A lot of fuel injector cleaner and paint thinner contains acetone and xylene - both of which can soften the surface of many thermoplastics - but are really good solvents for removing grease or oil from metal and compatible materials.

Deoxit isn't too badly priced in the US, considering how long it lasts, but in Europe (and I guess other regions) it's insanely priced.

No matter what you use, getting it to the right place can be tricky; many PCB amps don't have much space and when you're trying to get the product applied to the track you end up bending the spout and working semi-upside down to stop the product just running out of the bottom. Too much, and the crud and dust from all over the inside of the pot gets re-deposited on the track.

[Chuck H]

and the crud and dust from all over the inside of the pot gets re-deposited on the track.

I blow them out first. You can use standard desk products like keyboard cleaner and such. I actually use a small bike pump with a piece of aquarium tubing and then a spray cleaner tube is fixed to the end. I jam the tube into the pot can opening and pump a blast of air in. Then I repeat with the tube jammed in the other side. When I need to do whacky stuff like turning the cleaner/deoxidizer/lubricant spray can upside down I find it helps to charge it with a small squirt with the can upright, then flip it upside down and it'll have a little product to blast. And paper towels are my friend too. If I think there will be drips or splatter I wad paper towels up around the pot or contact to minimize the problem.

[5string]

I want to thank everyone who posted about DeOxit on this thread. I took apart my SAE preamp, which was a bit noisy after being stored for a few years. I used the DeOxit " slider" as well as the cleaner and lubricant"Gold'. It is wonderful stuff ! I carefully dissasembled, cleaned and lubricated, it works like new. I bought some small sponge Q tips to clean and apply lube to the sliders, to get into the slots. I had tries an electronics cleaner before, did not help much. This stuff cleared all the static, and the sliders are silky smooth. I since cleaned up one of my kids Fender amps with the product, wow what a change.
I appreciate you all , I never would have taken it apart and done this, without the info on this site!