Hey can someone help me with this one. Opened up the amp and found r303,r302 burned away. Also found broken solder joint on tube socket pin number 3 . I replaced replaced r302 and r303 with 47k I hope this is the right size. Now amp has no punch to it and sounds muddy. I checked voltage on tube socket and they are 496vdc,57vdc and 4vac. The choke looks like its burnt.what should DC on choke be mine is 247vdc Please help , thanks
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red knob twin in flames
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Don't guess....consult the schematic and replace any failed components with the same value/wattage/voltage.
http://www.webphix.com/schematic%20h...s/the_twin.pdf
If you are talking about the balancing resistors on the filament winding, those are marked as 47 OHM, not K-ohm. 100 ohm is the std value here....its not critical, but I wouldn't go above 200 ohm. These are commonly taken out as a result of output tube shorts. Replace the bad tube(s), then replace the burned heater balancing resistors.
The choke is in the screen circuit, so check the filter caps after it for extreme leakage or shorts. A shorted choke won't cause a voltage drop (unless its shorted to the core), but it won't act as a choke either....The farmer takes a wife, the barber takes a pole....
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I agree with the above posts, the two resistors are 47 ohms each, make them 100 if you want to, doesn;t matter. And they burn up usually when a power tube shorts to heater.
You report three voltages on a tube socket. OK, which tube and what pins? On the power tubes, pin 3 and 4 of each tube should have full B+ voltage, and the pin 5 of each the bias voltage, about -60v. Assuming high power mode.
Note this amp has a high/low power switch, and that changes B+ to the power tubes, while leaving the preamp alone. If your B+ is real low, make sure that switch is set for high power.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Those sound fine. Something is off here though. If you have 490v on the screens, how can you have 247v on your choke? CHeck that again.
You need to see those same voltages at every power tube socket. Don;t skip any. A failed tube can burn out a screen resistor on its own socket without affecting the others. so we always must check all of them.
ANd I don;t see, did we install new power tubes, or are these still the old ones? Worn tubes could be part of your problem, especially with those resistors as evidence.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Originally posted by rfhess View PostOK 'I will check that again. There's 2 wires on the choke, how do you test vdc ? Ground and one leg or a cross the 2 legs? OK on the tubes I tested with my peavey classic ... I have two sets also thanks for your help
That measurement will help when determining something like the wattage of the device.
What Enzo is calling for, I believe, is a Vdc measurement at the coil.
The front of it, the back of it. (it's a piece of wire, I don't see it changing "much")
Do both.
Red lead, measurement.
Black lead, ground (zero volts)
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They are probably the 1ohm 1watt cathode resistors (R215 & R216) on the schematic. There should be 2 diodes in parallel with them as seen on the schematic (D202 & D203). If it doesn't have the diodes install them. The resistors probably burnt due to bad power tubes (maybe not the ones you are using now).Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Can you be more specific what you mean by "intonation wave" or "waving sound"? It's possible you have excess ripple in the B+ due to faulty filter caps. Take an AC voltage reading where you were measuring the 496vdc on the power tubes.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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