NEW need help with behringer amp

[shawn40]

hello i am new here was wondering if i can get some help i have a behringer lx1200h vamp i broke the input.so ripped it apart unsolderd from circuit board now i cant find 1. i read use the switchcraft 114bpc i cant find the plastic 1 available i did find the metal 1 one from mouser my concern is mine is a 5 prong the 1s i am finding are 3 prong how do i no witch prongs to put were i dont want to screw up the amp got it new for 150 couple years back has been very good untell i tripped over the cable and broke the jack trying to fix before my next jam session.i am just trying to fix it if anyone could help i woul apreciate it thank you.

[Jazz P Bass]

Unfortunately, there is a whole lot more here than meets the eye.
There are about different connectors like that available from Switchcraft.
Link: Switchcraft : 1/4" 3 Cond Enclosed Jack
You need to figure out what the original jack was doing.
Some pins, of the 5, are normally closed.
Were all 5 lugs even being used.
Look at the circuit board.
If the five pads all have a little trace coming off of them, then that is what you need.

[oc disorder]

Hi Shawn40 and welcome to the forum.

I found a schematic of an input jack for a Beh. vamp hopefully its the same as yours.
The replacement jack that Enzo reccomended from Switchcraft is a N114BPC.
Apparently the solder pins are a bit wide so they do need filing down to fit the board
but I am guessing you no longer have the board. Some of the input jack boards
for Behringer have tiny surface mount components on them so I hope yours didn't !

Hopefully I've provided enough info in the diagram otherwise I suggest you try to find some muso with
the same unit that you can look inside.

In the diagram you will notice that the "tip switch" is connected to the sleeve or ground connection.
This just "mutes the input" when there is nothing plugged in.

hope this helps

[Jazz P Bass]

Also, the overall outside diameter of the threaded portion of the jack is larger.
The chassis hole must be opened up a tad.

[shawn40]

thank you jazz and oc for quick responce and picture/advice so OC from the picture am i ok not connecting the r and RS i ordered that part 114bpcx the metal 1 was all they showed said obsolete on the 114bpc.so i got that coming but it is only 3 prong and i dont know what the R and the RS is or does.i just dont want to fry the amp from my stupidity.thank you for all the help

[shawn40]

i have the pcb board it was all fine tell i tripped on the cord and broke the jack i already desoldered it from the board i just need to replace the jack didnt think it would be impossible to find a 5 pin and i assume the 3 pin will leave the R and the RS empty will that work.THANK YOU FOR THE INFO/TIME

[oc disorder]

Thats ok The "R" means ring and obviously "RS" is a switch contact on the ring. It comes from Tip,Ring and Sleeve which
are the contacts on a jack plug ...had its origins in telephone exchanges.
Headphones use them as you have two signals L & R and a common ground. In modern mixers where you have a 3 wire circuit
in a patch point also use these.Guitar jack plugs are only Tip and Sleeve the "hot" wire that hums and ground.
I doubt that the ring would be used in your amp although sometimes the switch action is used for some other purpose like
muting the circuit further down the chain.
Hope it works out for you.

[shawn40]

thank you for the info do you think i should solder 2 wires to the blank spots on pcb board and tie them into the connectors on the new 114pcbx so everything is complete on pcb board.or just leave them empty and hope for the best i really apreciate the help i noticed from reading the forums you really no your stuff thank you.

[oc disorder]

" should i solder 2 wires to the blank spots...or just leave them empty?"

Well if the blank spots are the copper pads on the PCB you should be able to see if there are any
copper tracks leading somewhere like the tip and sleeve pads do.
If they were just anchor points to provide extra strength where the jack was originally soldered to,
I wouldn't worry too much about them (the ring and ring switch connections).
Its a bit hard working blind without the correct schematic,the amp in front of me or a photo.
If you have any problems this forum should be able to help you further.

One point I didn't mention is that the plastic sleeved jack socket is normally there for a reason.
Its to stop the input being grounded or earthed at the chassis.The ground connection is often
made further down in the amp at a common point to counteract a ground loop which sometimes can cause hum.However this may not be the case for you .
If it is , the solution is to get an insulated jack or make an even bigger hole and mount a blank plastic grommet in it (or stiff rubber grommet I think auto spare places have some for sealing holes under dashboards etc)and mounting your metal sleeved jack in that stopping it from touching the chassis.
Maybe Behringer just had millions of plastic jacks lying around !!
Anyhow like I said it may not be a problem.

[shawn40]

ok thanks.so since my original one just broke i hot glued it together and soldered it back in no signal is found now when i wiggle the jack it will sometimes get the signal but no sound comes out.so i guess i will wait for the new 3 prong and see what happens i hope the amp is not bad now.how do i upload photos or give me a email address and i can send you pictures of the jack and both sides of the board.any help greatly apreciated just trying to fix my amp.from what i read behringer is sounding like junk was told from a friend in a band that it was a good amp reason i bought it i never thought if it broke i couldnt find parts being a big name company(my mistake) what amp would you recomend someone purchasing if they were looking for a 80s rock sound.and thank you very much for all the HELP

[DrGonz78]

Look into getting a guitar amp that was made in the 80's if that is the sound your looking at...? I like the Randall RG80 combo amp, but not all them have the foot switch w/ their original amps. Those foot switches are very hard to find and you wind up making or buying a replacement pedal. The newer Randall RG75 might be easier to find, but I am not sure how that one compares w/ it's predecessor. The peavey combo amps from the eighties are really cool too. Also, look into buying a used fender amp, since those amps are from all the decades.

[shawn40]

hello i was wondering what you think of this i got the new input switch solderd it in and i get no signal and i noticed the master volume knob does not light up wich is next to the pcb board was wondering what you think or is it not worth trying to fix cant afford to replace so i would like to try and fix if its worth it.and THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP (i tripped over chord and broke input jack was unplugged at the time any ideas)

[DrGonz78]

Just to throw this out there but as I read you were concerned about 3 lugs only being present and not the 5 you had...

http://www.onlinecomponents.com/swit...tml?p=12318422

This part says it has 5 lugs total and is exactly like your original part. Just in case but not sure it will help if there is something else wrong. It seems to me that I had a similar problem w/ a fender guitar amp and one replacement jack opened up the main volume pot. Strange these lil plastic things...

[Enzo]

114BPC is the one with the metal bushing.

N114BPC is the same thing but with plastic bushing.


The X on the end doesn;t matter, it is just an update.

The source DrGonz links sells both types and has both in stock. It says N114BPC no longer available because the newer updated version N114BPCX is now what they stock.

[oc disorder]

Just read Enzo's post-good idea to fit an equivalent of what was there it might save a lot of stuffing around

"how do i upload photos"
it's in the help section here
Reading and Posting Messages When in "+Reply To Thread" scroll down to manage attachments)
I usually reduce the size while trying not to loose too much quality...

You can get very "usable" tones from Behringer gear , I guess as they were one of the main
"front runners" in organising manufacturing in China and managed to produce a usable
product undercutting the opposition they attracted a lot of flak as cheap usually meant junk.
I recall when anything made in Japan was wrongly regarded as inferior.
Now heaps of Sony and Yamaha gear is in TV and Radio studios around the world.

If the sound you are getting you enjoy and it stimulates you to do more I'd stick with it.
In the meantime check out some local bands live and see what sort of sounds the guitarists get
and what gear helps them to do it.

I saw a Marshall JCM 800 combo (1x 12" spkr)recently and I thought it was a great sounding
rock amp.You do have to drive it fairly hard to get the best sounds out of it .
The down side is it's loud! and you need pedals to get other sounds.
The Behringer has a lot built in and although in my mind not the quality of the Marshall,
it can hold its own for versatility.

Now regarding the problem of no sound.
You can either stop here and take it to a local tech , a radio amateur*** or even a friendly tv repair
shop who should be able to sus it out.
Or plod on a bit more. Some pictures would help here.

I have no idea what the volume knob lights up from ie whether it just has its own panel light
to help see the settings or if it is some sort of signal indicator.
If its a signal or level indicator, it's not working as there is no signal for it to work from!
My guess is the jack you have is not connecting to the right pins or there is a solder
splash somewhere shorting the signal.

Unsolder the jack again and with the master vol down turn on the amp and just turn it up a little bit
can you hear a faint hum? Now with a screwdriver touch all the 5 solder pads 'till you find the one
that Hummmmmmms.

Find the pin in the new jack socket that is the tip ..look through the back and push a jack plug in
to make sure you have the right pin.

That pin goes in the one that hums......(thats the title of my next book !!!)

Now see if you can find the ground tab on the board. Its printed circuit board track is usually wider than the others sometimes it covers the whole board to act as a shield .

Anyway as there are only 2 pins left it will work one way or the other so try both ways and see which works.

Also it may be possible you just have to rotate the jack 90 Deg and solder it back in.

Hope it works out.

***Friendly Licensed Radio Amateur old timers can usually be found by a cluster of funny looking antennas on their roof but I fear they are a dying breed!