well electros have a wide tolerance so if you like the other channel you should find out what the actual values of your other caps are.
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NOS Mallory capacitors for Rhodes Piano
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Originally posted by 52 Bill View PostAs for the Mallory caps, there are 4 in the signal path, all four are 5uF @ 25vdc Non-Polarized.
The front end of the preamp is mono and only separates into stereo at the vibrato stage, so the only right / left caps are the two at the output of the preamp.
2. Do the diode have any bearing on the sound? The originals seem to check out but I have the ones that VV gave in the kit. If they have no bearing on sound what so ever than I would swap those out to be safe?
3. Lastly,I know this is a basic question but as far s soldier selection what should I be using and is shinier better? I ask because all the electronics I have worked on have shinny soldier and the soldier I am currently using from radio shack has a dull finish. What is the better copper/tin ratio for electronics like this?
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Originally posted by diagrammatiks View Postwell electros have a wide tolerance so if you like the other channel you should find out what the actual values of your other caps are.
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So what do you do when you need a new pick up in the harp? Rewind your own? This is starting to sound like the guy who was restoring an old HP 200A audio osc and he built his own caps so they would look original - way to toxic and over the top effort. BTW some of the best aluminum electrolytics now come from Japan but they probably sound terrible
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I will measure my values but like I said before ........
. Plus would I be measuring resistance because my meter doesnt measure capacitance.
More to the point: no multimeter , not even sophisticated Lab Equipment will help you, because the Mojo Meters have not been invented yet.
They have not even developed the humbler "Creamyness" Meters.Juan Manuel Fahey
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Originally posted by gbono View PostSo what do you do when you need a new pick up in the harp? Rewind your own? This is starting to sound like the guy who was restoring an old HP 200A audio osc and he built his own caps so they would look original - way to toxic and over the top effort. BTW some of the best aluminum electrolytics now come from Japan but they probably sound terrible
1. So if all capacitors except the 4 5MFDs have absolutely no bearing on sound or frequency characteristics for the Tone POT then I can just swap out the 4 5MFD Caps untill IM happy. is this correct?
2. Do the diode have any bearing on the sound? The originals seem to check out but I have the ones that VV gave in the kit. If they have no bearing on sound what so ever than I would swap those out to be safe?
3. Lastly,I know this is a basic question but as far s soldier selection what should I be using and is shinier better? I ask because all the electronics I have worked on have shinny soldier and the soldier I am currently using from radio shack has a dull finish. What is the better copper/tin ratio for electronics like this?
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Originally posted by Skiroy View Post1. So if all capacitors except the 4 5MFDs have absolutely no bearing on sound or frequency characteristics for the Tone POT then I can just swap out the 4 5MFD Caps untill IM happy. is this correct?
Originally posted by Skiroy View Post2. Do the diode have any bearing on the sound? The originals seem to check out but I have the ones that VV gave in the kit. If they have no bearing on sound what so ever than I would swap those out to be safe?
Originally posted by Skiroy View Post3. Lastly,I know this is a basic question but as far s soldier selection what should I be using and is shinier better? I ask because all the electronics I have worked on have shinny soldier and the soldier I am currently using from radio shack has a dull finish. What is the better copper/tin ratio for electronics like this?
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Okay last 2 questions then Im just taking the plunge.
1. I found a distributor for the MTA NOS caps. But as far as ESR and age deterioration if their capacitance reads good does that mean I dont have to worry about that? In other words if I make the distributor email me measured capacitance values and they are in tolerance I should have to worry about ESR issues,right?
2. Looking at my schematic can someone tell me if the (2) 100MFD caps are in the audio signal path? And if anyone cares to waste the time tell me out of the 1MFD,(2) 8 MFDs, and (4) MFDs;which are in the audio signal path?
These are the values of the caps that VV send in the kits as well and it would also help me look at the schemo and try to start being able to make sense of the signal path.
Thankx
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In other words if I make the distributor email me measured capacitance values and they are in tolerance
Never ever.
Iエd buy and learn to use an LCR bridge and check by myself.
A vintage compatible one can be had at HamFests and similar places.
Avoid modern digital ones because they can suck the mojo out and leave digital scum inside, which you will *never* be able to clean out of the signal.Juan Manuel Fahey
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Originally posted by J M Fahey View PostAvoid modern digital ones because they can suck the mojo out and leave digital scum inside, which you will *never* be able to clean out of the signal.
Are you messing with me with this because I want to buy a multimeter today?
Also the VV Caps have no brand but they all have a little "M" with a box around it. Does anyone know what these are?
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